South Wales Rock

South Wales Rock
Author Matt Woodfield, Alan Rosier, Roy Thomas, Tim Hoddy
Published The Climbers' Club (2020)
ISBN 978-0-957281-58-5



This guide, produced in association with South Wales Climbing Wiki, contains 1500 of the best routes in South Wales. With Limestone escarpments overlooking the mountains, hidden Sandstone quarries for your first steps climbing outside or projecting hard classics, and sea cliffs offering either a big adventure or pleasant day out, it’s hard to beat the variety of climbing on offer. Featuring trad routes from Diff to E6, sport routes from F4 to F8a+, bouldering and Deep Water Solos, all made easy to find with topos & maps and packed full of inspirational photos throughout. This is a guide book like no other, a hybrid guide that combines the convenience of a select book with the completeness of a comprehensive guide. We’ve tucked into these pages the best climbing this area has to offer, with links to the South Wales Climbing Wiki that records everything else that’s been climbed. This means no more compromises on book size or information volume and when new routes get put up and old ones fall down, the Wiki will keep you up to date and in the know.

Crags covered by this Guide
Caerphilly crags # climbs Rocktype Faces
Abertysswg 22 Sandstone (hard) SW
Penallta 58 Sandstone (hard) S
Cardiff crags # climbs Rocktype Faces
Sully Island 255 Limestone S
Taff's Well 125 Limestone W
Taff's Well West 63 Limestone N
Gwent crags # climbs Rocktype Faces
Crymlyn Quarries 55 Sandstone (hard) W
Cwmcarn Quarry 36 Sandstone (hard) SW
Gilwern 252 Limestone E
New Tredegar 18 Sandstone (hard) ?
Ridgeway 9 Sandstone (hard) SE
Sirhowy 79 Sandstone (hard) W
Tirpentwys 33 Sandstone (hard) SW
Tyle y Coch 26 Sandstone (hard) E
Merthyr Tydfil crags # climbs Rocktype Faces
Darren Fawr 40 Limestone ?
Morlais Quarries 112 Limestone NW
Twynau Gwynion Quarries 91 Limestone NE
Mid Glamorgan crags # climbs Rocktype Faces
Bargoed 32 Sandstone (hard) W
Box Bay 106 Limestone W
Neath Port Talbot crags # climbs Rocktype Faces
Abbey Buttress 28 Sandstone (hard) SW
Cilfrew Edge 110 Sandstone (hard) SE
Crag Craig Fawr 11 Sandstone (hard) S
Dyffryn 47 Sandstone (hard) E
Powys crags # climbs Rocktype Faces
Llangattock Escarpment (Chwar Pant y Rhiw) 128 Limestone NW
Llangattock Escarpment (Craig y Castell) 63 Limestone NE
Llangattock Escarpment (Eastern Edge) 83 Limestone N
Rhondda Cynon Taff crags # climbs Rocktype Faces
Blaenllechau 19 Sandstone (hard) W
Cwmaman 36 Sandstone (hard) W
Ferndale 79 Sandstone (hard) E
Gelli 53 Sandstone (hard) NW
Mount Pleasant X1 73 Sandstone (hard) W
Mountain Ash 85 Sandstone (hard) W
Navigation Quarry 81 Sandstone (hard) SW
Pen Pych 12 Sandstone (hard) SW
The Darren 37 Sandstone (hard) SW
The Gap 160 Sandstone (hard) NE
Trebanog 67 Sandstone (hard) S
Treherbert Quarrry (Rhondda Pillar) 61 Sandstone (hard) NW
Swansea crags # climbs Rocktype Faces
Dinas Rock 285 Limestone SW
Vale of Glamorgan crags # climbs Rocktype Faces
Castle Upon Alun Quarry 57 Limestone NE
Ogmore (Main) 186 Limestone S
Ogmore Bouldering 141 Limestone SW
Witches Point 225 Limestone SW

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