UKC

Climbs 63
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces N

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Bristol beat 7a (2stars) - Taffs well west © jon clayton

Crag features

On the other side of the valley and well hidden from the main crag at Taff's Well is a series of old quarried walls that contain some good sport climbs. The style varies from slabs to slightly overhanging featured walls and all the routes are technical. Although most of the walls apart fro the slabs are enclosed and shady, the climbing is well-worth searching out in the right conditions.

Approach notes

As for Taffs Well (East) to the roundabout below that crag, then turn left to Radyr, then right at next roundabout. 0.5mi further on the left is a blocked quarry track. Park in small housing estate on the right (gwaelod-Y-Garth, Heol Berry).
Take faint path up through woods to a good track: follow to small pinnacle with crag behind. Best to get there early to avoid parking problems. This is due to the fact that people leave there vehicles there while they go off to work. Does get very busy!!!!!

Update this Crag
Last updated on 13/Mar/2024

Restricted Access

November 2017 update

Reports of climbers being told to leave by security staff from the quarry and stating that they will be removing the bolts form this venue. BMC are investigating.

The owners of the site (Cemex Ltd) have approached the BMC to advise that this crag is within and forms part of a larger site that is an active and working quarry. They are legally bound by the Quarries Regulations 1999 to ensure that they take appropriate steps to prevent public access to the site, and have requested the BMC to inform climbers that climbing is not allowed at this site. 

2020 update

Climbers have been heavily using this crag (especially during lockdown) with no issues. If approached by Cemtex Staff, please comply with their request if asked to leave and get in touch with your local access rep.

Click here for RAD Access Notes
Last update: 21/08/2020  

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Be careful when parking to avoid the disabled space. It is NOT clearly marked: small sign on garden fence & no road paint. The neighbour will threaten to slash _all_ your tyres if you park there. Welcome to the valleys.
simoncov - 03/Apr/22
looks like a treefall has put the slab area out of action!
gobbledigook - 17/Aug/15
Love this crag. It takes some drying out and and is a little dingy but the climbing is great. Wonderful angular quarried rock makes for technical climbing requiring body tension, balance, and sometimes a bit of thuggery.
Giles Davis - 23/Aug/14
Does anyone know if there is good top- and bottom-roping at this crag? I have just started climbing outdoors and have not learned to lead yet. Thanks.
marcjospeh - 07/May/14
a nice quiet venue, ideal on a very hot day as it is shaded. Some of the routes were a little sandy / dirty so a bit more traffic could be required. Interesting to climb though!
hms - 12/Jul/13
Now almost completely rebolted and clean. The north wall is the showpiece of the crag. Needs moderating but updates are available on swmc wiki.
Esoterical - 27/May/10
The path leading from the road starts just to the right of the large gravel track and is marked by a public footpath sign. Dont take the gravel track
Billg - 10/Oct/09
This is an absolutaly amazing grag which offers some fantatic multi pitch routes as well as some very scary trad routes i highly recomend climbing here to everyone
jcj - 06/Mar/07
The map ref is miles out. This crag is nowhere near Newtown!
timjones - 19/Mar/06
The book describes it as going Right, diagonally to the nose. I've finished up the arete above and left on several occasions, shorter but exposed and less vegetated and having poor rock. All slightly academic as Pine Tree is on Taff's Well Main, an entirely different crag across the valley from TW West which is an exclusively single pitch, sports crag. And it's not in Powys, It's on the edge of Cardiff so this database entry is somewhat flawed!
Mattress - 13/Jul/05
The route shown in the photo is wrong. The climb goes up the blunt rib, left to the bottom of the groove and up this to the tree. The climb finishes further left out and up the prominent nose - highlight of the climb!
ALAN PIKE - 07/Sep/04
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