UKC

Climbs 186
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

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Ogmore sunset © Mark Salter

Crag features

Fantastic crag. Generally steep and overhanging rock - mostly good but "some of the finishes and occasionally entire routes" can be unstable. In-situ gear may be corroded. A real adventure experience, not to be underrated; if you think Pembroke grades are 'real' be prepared for a total pasting. Routes up to 36m.

Approach notes

Tidal - extremely so, with tides rising 6m to 9m up the cliff.
Take the road from Ogmore by Sea (B4524) tw Southerndown Bay to a sharp bend passing West Farm (just after sign marking Southerndown boundary). Park in grassy area bounded by concrete posts. The tea shop is now a Jazz venue which does have a Cafe/Bar, called The Barn.
Walk down grassy gully tw sea to narrow path running W. Abseil approach. There are some stakes, but there are also a number of bolts to abseil off as well.

Exposure Explosion is awesome and about right for the grade but did Pluto and Pinocchio and they both felt a grade harder than they are given, but all of the routes are so so good! Also have had the crag to ourselves on both trips there, not sure why more people don't go here!
timmyhobby - 28/Aug/22
The routes I've climbed here feel bigger and harder than the grade suggests. Not a place to push your grade?
Mattress - 22/Jul/05
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