UKC

Climbs 26
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 149m a.s.l
Faces E

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Al Rosier on Fairies Wear Boots (6c+) at Tyle y Coch © Rob McAllister

Crag features

Tyle y Coch quarry is set in a pleasant quiet dell on the hillside between Abercarn and Newbridge. It has a sheer main wall of quality sandstone plus another wall with some pleasant easier offerings.

The crag has been re-bolted and cleaned over 2013/14. Only the few easy routes to the right of the main wall have not been restored. If you wish to give these all a good clean, drop me a line and I will then re-bolt them.

The quarry gets some morning sun but there is a dense tree canopy. Seepage does occur and the Main Wall takes time to dry out; once dry the Main Wall is steep enough to allow climbing in the rain,

Approach notes

Although this crag is impossible to see from the road, it is less than 100m from the car. There is a large muddy pull in, on the western (uphill) side of Celynen Road, in which to park the car.

Walk back (south) for 20m whereupon an unmarked footpath (starting at chest height) leads gently uphill for 50m. The path then meets a disused railway track with a brick lined culvert beneath. Jump over the fence opposite and enter the quarry. 

Update this Crag
Last updated on 13/Mar/2024
Hi, I added a couple of comments in the lines between Bore Hole and Mal Culo. At the top of Bore Hole there is only one rusted lower off. At the top of Mal Culo, there are massively rusted. The mallion connecting the chain literally crumbled on my hand.
FerClimbs - 16/Apr/19
Good crag and quite idyllic in the right conditions, but some of the Rockfax grades are complete bullshit, hopefully will be corrected on here.
Fiend - 11/May/17
Around 150 meters away from the main quarry i have discovered a small bouldering wall. It stands at around 3.5 meters tall and on an angle of 35 degrees overhanging. Ive spent many hours here making up my own boulder problems withdinos, technical and easy routes. This wall is perfect to finish a day off at the end of a days climb at Tyle Y Goch quarry. The wall is quarried and sharp in places however very enjoyable. To find it is rather difficult. Walk down the road from Tyle Y Goch car park towards West End, you will see a small overgrown quarry on the right. Take a steep, muddy trail going up the right side of the quarry. Before the trail turns right, take a left into the upper tear of the road side quarry. You will see the wall in front of you which is set below a 2ft step. Enjoy!
MathewWright1998 - 25/Sep/15
Popped in tonight. Put bolts in to reinstate Mislivings. Started to clean up the trad routes on the left, but needs more work! Good work in re-equipping the crag and cleaning it out folks.
goi.ashmore - 23/Jul/14
poped here on saterday bit damp in places came down only expecting to toprope due to missing bolts/rusted but someone has started to rebolt lovely to see tryed my first 7a outdoors good day out nice climbing after a good few days of dry weather due to seepage
noddy.rhys - 21/Apr/13
whent to the crag yesterday and sombody has smashed or flatend all but to of lower bolts still.ok for drop in
ewog - 02/Apr/09
Went there yesterday and although this is an awesome wall it is still quite wet and greasy.........
pinnochio - 07/Feb/08
Spent the weekend at this crag. Loads of fun!! Will be returning.
Nathan275 - 21/Oct/07
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