UKH

South Devon

South Devon cover photo
Author Pete Saunders
Published The Climbers Club (2018)
ISBN 978-0-957281-57-8

Review

South Devon offers a wealth of varied climbing. This sister guide to Dartmoor (2017) covers all the climbing outside of the granite mass. Whilst the main attractions for visiting climbers are the adventure routes and Deep Water Solos on Torbay limestone, there are enough sport climbs, boulder problems, and trad climbs to keep locals busy for years.

South Devon offers a wealth of varied climbing. This sister guide to Dartmoor (2017) covers all the climbing outside of the granite mass. Whilst the main attractions for visiting climbers are the adventure routes and Deep Water Solos on Torbay limestone, there are enough sport climbs, boulder problems, and trad climbs to keep locals busy for years. Now THE comprehensive guide to climbing in South Devon; with details of 74 crags and over 1800 routes, including recent developments.


Crags covered by this Guide
Devon crags # climbs Rocktype Faces
Anstey's Cove 152 Limestone S
Ansteys Cove Area Bouldering 25 Limestone all
Ash Hole 29 Limestone N
Ausewell Rocks 16 Quartzite S
Babbacombe Crags 98 Limestone NE
Bantham Hand 5 Shale all
Battery Gardens 17 Limestone all
Beer Head 2 Chalk S
Beesands 33 Schist all
Berry Head - Coastguard Cliffs 180 Limestone S
Berry Head - The Old Redoubt 127 Limestone E
Berry Head Quarry 84 Limestone N
Black Crag 14 Limestone NW
Black Head 25 Limestone E
Bolt Tail 24 Schist W
Broadbridge Quarry 7 Limestone SW
Broadsands Beach 1 Limestone E
Buckfastleigh 5 Limestone NE
Chapel Hill 13 Limestone W
Chipley Quarry 11 Pillow lava SW
Chudleigh Rocks - North Face 67 Limestone N
Chudleigh Rocks - South Face 189 Limestone S
Churston Cove 23 Limestone SE
Churston Quarries 71 Limestone N
Cliff Road Crag 25 Limestone S
Cod Rock 8 Limestone all
Cove Quarry 18 Shale S
Cradle Rock Buttress 21 Limestone E
Daddyhole Main Cliff 54 Limestone E
Daddyhole Upper Cliff 87 Limestone S
Durl Head 40 Limestone all
Elender Cove 12 Schist S
Gammon Head 10 Schist S
Hazard Quarry 45 Limestone S
Hazel Tor 6 Mica schist all
Hexton Quarry 6 Limestone S
Holcombe Area 4 Sandstone (soft) SE
Hope Cove 2 Shale S
Hope's Nose 40 Limestone W
Hope's Nose Beach 35 Limestone S
Kerswell Quarry 3 Limestone N
Ladram Bay Stacks 9 Sandstone (soft) all
Landcombe Cove 33 Slate SE
Leigh Tor 38 Quartzite all
London Bridge 43 Limestone all
Long Quarry Point 100 Limestone E
Meadfoot Quarry 26 Limestone SE
Morwell Rocks 40 Slate W
Mount Batten 0 Limestone N
Petit Tor Point 40 Limestone E
Pig's Nose Beach 25 Schist all
Pilchard Cove 10 Slate S
Plimsoll Line Cliff 14 Limestone S
Plymouth Hoe 85 Limestone S
Prawle Point 22 Schist S
Radford Quarry 14 Limestone S
Richmond Walk 14 Limestone E
Saddle Point 7 Limestone SW
Sanctuary Wall 33 Limestone S
Sandy Bay 4 Sandstone (soft) W
Sharkham Point and St. Marys Bay 27 Basalt NE
Sharp Tor 11 Schist all
Shoalstone Beach 55 Limestone N
St. Anchorites Rock 9 Dolerite all
Steeple Cove 3 Schist S
Telegraph Hole 37 Limestone SE
Thurlstone Rock 1 Conglomerate all
Torbryan Quarry 46 Limestone W
Torcross Boulders 38 Slate all

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