South Devon
Published The Climbers Club (2018)
ISBN 978-0-957281-57-8
Review
South Devon offers a wealth of varied climbing. This sister guide to Dartmoor (2017) covers all the climbing outside of the granite mass. Whilst the main attractions for visiting climbers are the adventure routes and Deep Water Solos on Torbay limestone, there are enough sport climbs, boulder problems, and trad climbs to keep locals busy for years.
South Devon offers a wealth of varied climbing. This sister guide to Dartmoor (2017) covers all the climbing outside of the granite mass. Whilst the main attractions for visiting climbers are the adventure routes and Deep Water Solos on Torbay limestone, there are enough sport climbs, boulder problems, and trad climbs to keep locals busy for years. Now THE comprehensive guide to climbing in South Devon; with details of 74 crags and over 1800 routes, including recent developments.
| Devon crags | # climbs | Rocktype | Faces |
|---|---|---|---|
| Anstey's Cove | 154 | Limestone | S |
| Ansteys Cove Area Bouldering | 25 | Limestone | all |
| Ash Hole | 29 | Limestone | N |
| Ausewell Rocks | 16 | Quartzite | S |
| Babbacombe Crags | 98 | Limestone | NE |
| Bantham Hand | 6 | Shale | all |
| Battery Gardens | 17 | Limestone | all |
| Beer Head | 2 | Chalk | S |
| Beesands | 33 | Schist | all |
| Berry Head - Coastguard Cliffs | 180 | Limestone | S |
| Berry Head - The Old Redoubt | 132 | Limestone | E |
| Berry Head Quarry | 84 | Limestone | N |
| Black Crag | 14 | Limestone | NW |
| Black Head | 25 | Limestone | E |
| Bolt Tail | 25 | Schist | W |
| Broadbridge Quarry | 7 | Limestone | SW |
| Broadsands Beach | 1 | Limestone | E |
| Buckfastleigh | 5 | Limestone | NE |
| Chapel Hill | 13 | Limestone | W |
| Chipley Quarry | 11 | Pillow lava | SW |
| Chudleigh Rocks - North Face | 68 | Limestone | N |
| Chudleigh Rocks - South Face | 190 | Limestone | S |
| Churston Cove | 23 | Limestone | SE |
| Churston Quarries | 71 | Limestone | N |
| Cliff Road Crag | 25 | Limestone | S |
| Cod Rock | 8 | Limestone | all |
| Cove Quarry | 18 | Shale | S |
| Cradle Rock Buttress | 22 | Limestone | E |
| Daddyhole Main Cliff | 54 | Limestone | E |
| Daddyhole Upper Cliff | 104 | Limestone | S |
| Durl Head | 40 | Limestone | all |
| Elender Cove | 13 | Schist | S |
| Gammon Head | 12 | Schist | S |
| Hazard Quarry | 45 | Limestone | S |
| Hazel Tor | 6 | Mica schist | all |
| Hexton Quarry | 6 | Limestone | S |
| Holcombe Area | 4 | Sandstone (soft) | SE |
| Hope Cove | 2 | Shale | S |
| Hope's Nose | 40 | Limestone | W |
| Hope's Nose Beach | 37 | Limestone | S |
| Kerswell Quarry | 3 | Limestone | N |
| Ladram Bay Stacks | 9 | Sandstone (soft) | all |
| Landcombe Cove | 33 | Slate | SE |
| Leigh Tor | 40 | Quartzite | all |
| London Bridge | 43 | Limestone | all |
| Long Quarry Point | 100 | Limestone | E |
| Meadfoot Quarry | 26 | Limestone | SE |
| Morwell Rocks | 40 | Slate | W |
| Mount Batten | 0 | Limestone | N |
| Petit Tor Point | 40 | Limestone | E |
| Pig's Nose Beach | 25 | Schist | all |
| Pilchard Cove | 10 | Slate | S |
| Plimsoll Line Cliff | 14 | Limestone | S |
| Plymouth Hoe | 88 | Limestone | S |
| Prawle Point | 22 | Schist | S |
| Radford Quarry | 14 | Limestone | S |
| Richmond Walk | 14 | Limestone | E |
| Saddle Point | 7 | Limestone | SW |
| Sanctuary Wall | 33 | Limestone | S |
| Sandy Bay | 4 | Sandstone (soft) | W |
| Sharkham Point and St. Marys Bay | 27 | Basalt | NE |
| Sharp Tor | 11 | Schist | all |
| Shoalstone Beach | 60 | Limestone | N |
| St. Anchorites Rock | 9 | Dolerite | all |
| Steeple Cove | 3 | Schist | S |
| Telegraph Hole | 38 | Limestone | SE |
| Thurlstone Rock | 1 | Conglomerate | all |
| Torbryan Quarry | 46 | Limestone | W |
| Torcross Boulders | 38 | Slate | all |
Add Guidebook Correction
Topo is incorrect in guidebook, line goes up same face as Muscle Farm (the right facing headwall).