Rockfax Description
A tremendous route that is both high in the grade and very sustained. Belay at the base of an intrusion of lighter rock 12m down from the large block in the gully bed.
1) 4b, 27m. Climb up the intrusion for 7m, then move left to a grassy ledge under a corner-line. Climb the rib and corner to a move left onto a small ledge. Move up a slab/rib (with difficulty) to a ledge and belay on the right.
2) 4b, 20m. Make some hard moves up the groove and continue along a rib to a belay at its end.
3) 4b, 18m. Head out right to gain the slab and rib just below a horizontal break. Follow the amazingly positioned slabby rib to a stance at block.
4) 4a, 15m. Move up a crack rightwards for 3m, then climb the slab above on small holds to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Classic Rock , 50 Best HS Routes in the UK. , Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , Lakeland's Greatest Pioneers , Arc'teryx Lakeland Revival 2017 , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , The Long Routes , UK Holiday Plans , Pre-MIA Wishlist , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District , Lake District Classic Rock Challenge , Mountain Rock , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , Bill Birkett (Classic Rock Climbs in the Lake District) Below E3 , Lakes Classic and Hard Rock Selection , A Lakeland Apprenticeship , Snowdonia and The Lakes Classic Rock Summer Challenge , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , Lakes 2022 , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Lakes ticklist , Lake District Ultimate Ticklist

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User Date Notes
JJ Spooner 21 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Crucial Hold on Crux is very loose, be careful! You can avoid this by climbing up and to the left at a similar grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Crucial Hold on Crux is very loose, be careful! You can avoid this by climbing up and to the left at a similar grade.

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 34
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 37
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Slabs West Route

Grade: HS 4a ***
(Grey Crag (Buttermere))

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