Contributed by lithos Aug/10 - This public hilllist has been seen 127,734 times

A famous collection of great climbs from the 'Classic Rock' book by Ken Wilson (1978), covering routes from all over the UK originally up to a grade of Hard Severe, although many have been subsequently upgraded to VS. The new 2007 edition added four outright routes in the chapter headings: these are Modern and K2 at Hen Cloud. Arrow Route at Sron na Ciche (a connective line accidentally unlisted in the original as it was always described) and Ivy Chimney as a 'continuation' of Milestone Direct (odd as it's atop pulpit route!) .

Please note that alternative names are occasionally used: Black Slab is Hargreaves Original; Mitre Ridge is by the Cumming-Crofton Route. For added depth of adventure look to the text for exciting possibilities: The Orr finish to Labyrinth, making the route VS, is for example well worth hunting out and the HS start to Terrier's Tooth would be sad for any enthusiast to miss, while Bell's incredible finish to the Cumming-Crofton Route is a real cherry on the icing of that little bun! The 2007 edition has a helpful and inspiring appendix of additional and alternative climbs in every part of the country. These are plentiful and will likewise encourage adventure and alternatives.

Articles about the Ken Wilson books and their "puerile tickers" can be found on the Needlesport's Website.

Map of all the route locations:

Mario traversing on Rib & Slab on a shady June day.  © Open Ascents
Mario traversing on Rib & Slab on a shady June day.
© Open Ascents, Jun 2023

3403 users are subscribed to this hilllist, and 8 have completed the full list.
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User Percentage Latest Log
1st jimorothy 100% 12 Jun, 2010
1st Nigel Bond 100% 22 Jul, 2016
1st mattkemp70 100% 16 Jul, 2022
1st Graham Westbrook 100% 11 Jun, 2022
1st beds74 100% 26 Apr, 2021
1st raincloud 100% 2023
1st mark4344 100% 6 Sep, 2023
1st JoeCoxson 100% 9 Sep, 2023
2nd Hidden 98% 29 Jul, 2018
3rd Steve Lenartowicz 95% 2 Sep, 2023

Map of routes in this ticklist

Least routes Most routes

Note: Only showing summits, scrambles, winter routes, and low grade climbs

Distribution of grades - Trad

Top 12 photos of this hilllist

Demo Route

Demo Route
© rhudson

Tower Gap Belay

Tower Ridge
Tower Gap Belay
© Paluchi

Sunrise on the second day of our traverse

Cuillin Ridge Traverse (Summer)
Sunrise on the second day of our traverse
© henrygiles99

An exhilarating solo of The Devil's Slide, my 400ft intro to Lundy

The Devil's Slide
An exhilarating solo of The Devil's Slide, my 400ft intro to Lundy
© Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH

Chris Bonington still climbing at 78. Legend

Little Chamonix
Chris Bonington still climbing at 78. Legend
© Paluchi

Splash

Terrier's Tooth
Splash
© Glenachulish

Dawn on Tower Ridge

Tower Ridge
Dawn on Tower Ridge
© toolboxtim

Jen Oliver on the famous last few moves of Demo Route

Demo Route
Jen Oliver on the famous last few moves of Demo Route
© Luke Carroll

Eastern  Traverse

Tower Ridge
Eastern Traverse
© luckyjim

Jen "gracefully" pulling herself out of tower gap. Lots of ice on my lens...

Tower Ridge
Jen "gracefully" pulling herself out of tower gap. Lots of ice on my lens...
© DaveThexton

Martin on the Great Tower at dawn after a night time ascent of Tower Ridge

Tower Ridge
Martin on the Great Tower at dawn after a night time ascent of Tower Ridge
© Andrew Marshall

Looking down Integrity to Collie's route and the Cioch

Integrity
Looking down Integrity to Collie's route and the Cioch
© tomdude


Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
SCOTLAND
Cuillin Ridge Traverse (Summer) VD *** 1328 ? Cuillin Ridge...
Cioch Direct S 4a * 632 150m • 5 Sron na Ciche
Arrow Route VD *** 1038 61m • 2 Sron na Ciche
Integrity VS 4c *** 844 76m • 2 Sron na Ciche
Cioch Nose VD *** 997 200m • 7 Sgurr a'...
The Long Climb VS *** 124 420m • 11 Ben Nevis
Tower Ridge D *** 2337 600m Ben Nevis
Clachaig Gully (Summer) S *** 180 520m Aonach Eagach -...
Archer Ridge S 4a *** 488 ? • 3 Aonach Dubh
The Long Crack S ** 404 ? • 3 Aonach Dubh
Crypt Route VD *** 214 ? Bidean nam Bian
North Face Route S * 591 220m • 8 Buachaille Etive Mor
Agag's Groove (Summer) VD *** 2132 105m • 4 Buachaille Etive Mor
The Chasm (Summer) VS *** 239 450m • 16 Buachaille Etive Mor
Squareface VD *** 482 90m • 3 Beinn a'...
Cumming-Crofton Route (Summer) S *** 227 ? Beinn a'...
Savage Slit (Summer) S *** 1082 80m • 4 Cairn Gorm - Cairn...
The Clean Sweep VS 4c *** 465 185m • 4 Hell's Lum
The Talisman (Summer) HS 4a *** 348 100m • 3 Ben Macdui -...
Eagle Ridge (Summer) S *** 935 250m Lochnagar
Ardverikie Wall HS 4b *** 1526 185m • 6 Binnein Shuas
Recess Route (Summer) S *** 587 110m • 8 The Cobbler
Punster's Crack (Summer) S *** 810 ? • 3 The Cobbler
Ardgartan Arête VS 4b ** 148 54m • 3 The Cobbler
Sou'wester Slabs VD *** 758 110m • 5 Cir Mhor
Labyrinth VS 4b * 142 120m • 6 Cir Mhor
THE LAKE DISTRICT
Little Chamonix VD *** 7740 70m • 4 Shepherd’s Crag
Gillercombe Buttress S 4a *** 1810 ? Gillercombe
Troutdale Pinnacle S *** 3718 105m • 6 Black Crag...
Bracket and Slab Climb VS 4b *** 1435 97m • 5 Gimmer Crag
Ash Tree Slabs VD *** 1717 ? Gimmer Crag
'C' Route S 4b *** 1008 ? Gimmer Crag
Bowfell Buttress HS 4b *** 1144 110m • 4 Bowfell
Murray's Route S 4a *** 1084 ? Dow Crag
Jone's Route Direct from Lord's Rake HS 4b *** 295 ? Scafell Crag
Moss Ghyll Grooves VS 4c *** 654 79m • 4 Scafell Crag
Needle Ridge VD *** 1593 114m • 5 The Napes
The Wasdale Crack HS 4c *** 1201 17m • 2 The Napes
Tophet Wall HS 4b *** 1317 75m • 4 The Napes
New West Climb VD *** 438 ? Pillar
Rib and Slab Climb HS 4b *** 321 ? Pillar
WALES
Great Gully S *** 236 267m • 11 Craig Yr Ysfa
Gashed Crag VD ** 1194 190m • 6 Tryfan
Overlapping Ridge Route (First Pinnacle Rib) D ** 1520 150m Tryfan
Grooved Arête HVD 4a *** 4321 230m • 8 Tryfan
Direct Route HVD *** 3556 85m • 5 Tryfan
Pulpit Route VD ** 2261 87m • 5 Tryfan
Direct Route VS 4c *** 832 88m • 7 Glyder Fach
Hope VD *** 4568 135m • 4 Idwal Slabs (aka...
Lazarus S 4a *** 2359 43m • 2 Idwal Slabs (aka...
The Arete VD ** 1261 24m Idwal Slabs (aka...
Grey Slab VS 4b *** 404 81m • 2 Glyder Fawr
Nea VS 4b ** 2090 75m • 4 Clogwyn y Grochan
Crackstone Rib S 4a *** 3660 55m • 3 Carreg Wastad
The Wrinkle VD ** 2039 75m • 3 Carreg Wastad
Flying Buttress VD *** 3099 87m • 6 Dinas Cromlech
Spiral Stairs VD *** 1609 84m Dinas Cromlech
The Cracks HS 4c *** 2378 90m • 5 Dinas Mot
Main Wall HS 4b *** 1650 140m • 6 Cyrn Las (Gyrn Las)
Avalanche/Red Wall/Longlands S 4b ** 678 286m • 12 Y Lliwedd
Creagh Dhu Wall HS 4b *** 1866 65m • 2 Craig y Castell...
Will o' the Wisp HVD *** 503 95m • 6 Craig Cywarch (aka...
PENNINE AND PEAK
Red Pencil Direct HS 4b *** 327 ? Pen-y-ghent
Parson's Chimney HS 4b *** 743 17m Almscliff
Sail Buttress HS 4b ** 3281 14m Birchen Edge
Topsail VS 4c ** 4095 12m Birchen Edge
Powder Monkey Parade S 4b ** 2653 16m Birchen Edge
Flying Buttress HVD 4a *** 9339 24m Stanage Popular
April Crack HS 4b *** 5620 16m Stanage Popular
Hargreaves' Original VS 4c *** 6965 18m Stanage Popular
Central Climb VS 4c *** 1387 38m • 3 Hen Cloud
Modern VS 4b ** 773 20m Hen Cloud
K2 S 4b ** 1181 30m • 2 Hen Cloud
Via Dolorosa VS 4c *** 1807 32m Roaches Lower Tier
Black and Tans S 4a *** 3338 30m • 2 Roaches Upper Tier
Technical Slab HS 4a *** 2215 24m Roaches Upper Tier
THE SOUTH
Piton Route VS 4c ** 1217 58m • 3 Avon Gorge (Main...
The Devil's Slide HS 4a *** 1484 117m • 5 Lundy
Demo Route HS 4b *** 3609 19m • 2 Sennen
Terrier's Tooth HS 4b *** 529 40m • 3 Chair Ladder
Pendulum Chimney S 4b *** 1051 59m • 5 Chair Ladder
Doorpost HS 4b *** 3778 67m • 3 Bosigran
Climbers' Club Ordinary VS 4b ** 1134 52m • 3 The Dewerstone
227 stars 143,143 7,888m 295
Users who have completed the full list are:
JoeCoxson, mark4344, raincloud, beds74, Graham Westbrook, mattkemp70, Nigel Bond, jimorothy
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