Mountaineering and climbing legend Doug Scott has died at the age of 79 after a battle with cancer. He passed away peacefully in his sleep early this morning (Monday 7th December).
Scott made 45 expeditions to the greater ranges and summitted 40 peaks. He pioneered new routes and will be remembered for pushing an alpine-style of ascent. His climbing career spanned six decades and included the first British ascent of the South-West face of Everest alongside Dougal Haston, where they spent a night bivvying 100m below the summit.
He reached the highest peaks on all seven continents and pioneered big walls from Baffin Island to the Karakoram. In 1977, Scott and Chris Bonington made an ascent of Baintha Brakk (7285m), better known as The Ogre, in the Pakistan Karakorum. On the descent, Scott broke both his legs and one of the great mountaineering tales of survival ensued where it took the pair 8 days to get to safety. Scott wrote about the epic in his book The Ogre, widely considered to be one of the greatest adventure stories.
As an active member of the mountaineering community, Scott was Vice President of the BMC from 1994-1997 and President of the Alpine Club from 1999-2001. He received numerous awards in recognition of his mountaineering achievements, including a CBE and the Patron's Medal of the Royal Geographical Society.
In March of this year, Scott was diagnosed with cerebral lymphoma – a type of inoperable brain cancer. After his diagnosis, he was confined to the ground floor of his home but shortly into lockdown made his last climb up the stairs to raise money for Community Action Nepal, the aid organisation that Scott set up with numerous ongoing charitable projects in mountain communities.