Rockfax Description
A classic trip weaving its way up the impressive buttress.
1) 4a, 14m. Climb the left-hands side of Hollybush Gully and move out left and climb a groove to its top, step left across the side-wall then mantelshelf onto a small stance.
2) 4a, 16m. Continue up the groove then step left and tackle the bulges by a trio of awkward, and poorly-protected semi-mantelshelves, mild but bold. It is also possible to start up Jeffcoat's Chimney then follow ledges rightwards via a long traverse to the base of the groove, at about the same grade. © Rockfax
FA. Fred Piggott 1922.
Classic Rock , ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50 , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , The Roaches - Routes Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , 100 Western Grit Stars , World Graded List , Roaches w sobote? :) , Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner , Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion , The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza , Definitive *** Peak Grit , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , On Peak Rock , The Gritlist , Beginner Peak Severe , The Roaches - The First Ten , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , 100 Best Routes on Grit , Peaky , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , The Eal List , 2024
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Itsthegasman | 21 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: Found it easier than pedestal route, although the top is very run out over the mantels. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Found it easier than pedestal route, although the top is very run out over the mantels. |
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Sammahoney | 21 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: Good route. Done as single pitch, rope drag was shite. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Good route. Done as single pitch, rope drag was shite. |
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THE.WALRUS | 28 Mar, 2022 |
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βeta: HS 4a, because of the lack of gear in the final section. | ||
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βeta: HS 4a, because of the lack of gear in the final section. |
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DanSharkey | 23 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Not too tricky - not much gear up top though! | ||
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βeta: Not too tricky - not much gear up top though! |
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Richard Bradley | 26 Jun, 2003 |
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βeta: Great route. Not hard but a great and varied way to spend an hour. Don't forget to extend some runners otherwise the rope drag is the crux! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route. Not hard but a great and varied way to spend an hour. Don't forget to extend some runners otherwise the rope drag is the crux! |
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Jamie B | 3 May, 2003 |
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βeta: VDiff in my opinion. No discernable crux and the top bold section is about Diff technicaly. Easier than Black Velvet but still a great adventure for a beginner. | βeta? | |
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βeta: VDiff in my opinion. No discernable crux and the top bold section is about Diff technicaly. Easier than Black Velvet but still a great adventure for a beginner. |
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El Greyo | 20 Sep, 2002 |
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βeta: One of the best route at this grade on gritstone. Superb exposure near the top. | βeta? | |
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βeta: One of the best route at this grade on gritstone. Superb exposure near the top. |
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Grade: S 4a ***
(Roaches Upper Tier)