UKH Hills - 'Central Climb'

38m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An old classic finding a sneaky way up the crag's tallest face. The route is relatively easy for VS but oddly it is hard work all the way!
1) 4b, 14m. Shin up the wide crack with difficulty and hidden holds to a hard exit and a stance at the base of the main corner.
2) 4c, 14m. Climb the tough wide groove (okay, it may be 5a) past a ledge (stance?) to a bigger picnic-style ledge on the left.
3) 3c, 10m. The groove above the ledge to a rightwards exit (direct is harder), or the one out to the right (4b). © Rockfax

FA. John Laycock 1909.

Ticklists

Classic Rock , ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50 , The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Connoisseur's Classic Rock , Advanced beginner Hen Cloud and Ramshaw , The Roaches - Routes Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Hard Grit history , 100 Western Grit Stars , Darrencabowabo,s hit list , Peak Rock/2/ The Search For Difficulty Begins. , Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza , Definitive *** Peak Grit , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , Hen Cloud , On Peak Rock , The Gritlist , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , BSR multipitch routes , 100 Best Routes on Grit , Absolutely STOKEd on trent (road to western grit mastery) , Peaky

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User	Date		Notes
radddogg	4 Jun, 2023	Show βeta βeta: I checked BMC RAD and found no warnings but towards the top of the first crack I heard chicks, again deep behind the first belay and on the P2 crux there was a chick in a nest. Didn't seem bothered though, must have seen a few climbers pass. No sign of the parents until after we topped out and saw a parent return with some food	βeta?
Show beta βeta: I checked BMC RAD and found no warnings but towards the top of the first crack I heard chicks, again deep behind the first belay and on the P2 crux there was a chick in a nest. Didn't seem bothered though, must have seen a few climbers pass. No sign of the parents until after we topped out and saw a parent return with some food
Maddie	8 May, 2023	Show βeta βeta: Didn't see the below comment unfortunately- there's now 5 eggs so should best avoid for now	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Didn't see the below comment unfortunately- there's now 5 eggs so should best avoid for now
Iain Weymouth	2 May, 2023	Show βeta βeta: 4 or 5 jackdaw nests in the cracks, no eggs at the moment but best give it a miss for a month or two	βeta?
Show beta βeta: 4 or 5 jackdaw nests in the cracks, no eggs at the moment but best give it a miss for a month or two
mcarobene	2 Sep, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Can happily link pitches 2&3	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Can happily link pitches 2&3
PaulJepson	5 Feb, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Size 4 (BD) for p1 and Size 6 for p2 will settle any nerves.
Show beta βeta: Size 4 (BD) for p1 and Size 6 for p2 will settle any nerves.
Fraser kid	14 Sep, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Said hard severe in the book which felt right, but the climbing, especially on the second pitch, is very awkward
Show beta βeta: Said hard severe in the book which felt right, but the climbing, especially on the second pitch, is very awkward
LouiseCowie	6 Jul, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Bit of a concerning large wobbly block below the top on the left hand exit. Take care!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Bit of a concerning large wobbly block below the top on the left hand exit. Take care!
Offwidth	4 Jun, 2005	Show βeta βeta: HS for the first pitch, unless you miss some hidden holds. Severe above. The 'awkward' middle pitch is a breeze when you know how and well protected to boot. Easier than Modern.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: HS for the first pitch, unless you miss some hidden holds. Severe above. The 'awkward' middle pitch is a breeze when you know how and well protected to boot. Easier than Modern.
LakesWinter	27 May, 2005	Show βeta βeta: Major classic!!!!!! The first pitch is definitely the crux, the awkward crack on pitch 2 is not at all hard and the route should be HS 4b in comparison to other gritstone classics.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Major classic!!!!!! The first pitch is definitely the crux, the awkward crack on pitch 2 is not at all hard and the route should be HS 4b in comparison to other gritstone classics.
Robo	19 Jul, 2002	Show βeta βeta: One of the most entertaining routes I've climbed. First pitch=jamming joy. 2nd pitch=offwidth grunting. Last pitch=exposure city! Must do for gritstone.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: One of the most entertaining routes I've climbed. First pitch=jamming joy. 2nd pitch=offwidth grunting. Last pitch=exposure city! Must do for gritstone.