Rockfax Description
Fantastic rock and positions make this a must-do route. Start about 15m right from where the crag base starts to rise, below a scruffy groove with large holly tree.
1) 15m. Climb the crack/groove to a ledge, move left to belay.
2) 4a, 20m. Follow a well-trodden traverse-line left to the arete. Swing boldly onto the arete and follow the polished holds to a ledge. Take the short wall above to a sloping ledge to belay.
3) 4a, 20m. Climb up easily rightwards to a corner and follow it to about 2m before the roof. Make a tricky traverse left to finish up a short corner/crack onto a long terrace. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Requires good rope-work if bringing up two seconds! From just left of the large corner of Erosion Groove climb a short gulley to the steep section above. Traverse left on good footholds, rocking out onto the far left arete, with good exposure. Climb straight upwards to a large belay ledge. Climb right from the belay to a short crack. Climb this, moving back left to another crackline that leads, with the possibility of some jamming, to a short scramble top-out. Enjoy the views!
Ticklists
Classic Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , Menlove Routes , Heather's Multipitch Climbs , ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , Snowdonia - long routes and classic climbs , Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe , The Julia Bradbury Collection , CUMC Ticklist , AMC Uni Ticklist , ULMC Classics , North wales road to ruins HVS , North Wales Super Summer Solo Ticklist , Preparation climbs for a Cuillin ridge traverse , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , UK Holiday Plans , The climbs of Menlove Edwards and Colin Kirkus , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Definitive *** Llanberis , Mountain Rock , Dougs 2020 ToDo List , Big Routes 2020 , The (easy) Welsh Top50 Round , Hard Rock & Other Classics , Snowdonia and The Lakes Classic Rock Summer Challenge , Welsh Roadtrip , BSR multipitch routes , Welsh Classic Rock Challenge , UKC Top 20 Climbs (Not Grit) , Gwen Moffat: Space Below My Feet , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Ben's Trad Ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| FallingBrick | 18 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: Recommend belay low at the first ledge to make use of sling placement. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Recommend belay low at the first ledge to make use of sling placement. |
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| C Witter | 8 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Pleasant, straight-forward, well-protected, not particularly polished. Bit scrappy in places, but a great position. The best section is the traverse out to and up the arete. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Pleasant, straight-forward, well-protected, not particularly polished. Bit scrappy in places, but a great position. The best section is the traverse out to and up the arete. |
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| gazj1986 | 3 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: Lead pitch 1 and 3. Traversey | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lead pitch 1 and 3. Traversey |
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| Evak | 16 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Very polished! Not a good route for total novice | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Very polished! Not a good route for total novice |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Carreg Wastad
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The Insomniacs Traverse
Grade: S 4a ***
(Tryfan Fach [Little Tryfan])