Rockfax Description
A long and wandering trip up the huge buttress, which can be split into two or three pitches if required to ease rope drag problems. Start below a battered holly on the right-hand side of the buttress and climb glazed rock to the roof (4c). Escape out left passing the holly to ledges (possible stance) then climb to the left-hand corner of the huge roof by a choice of ways (4a - possible stance). Continue to runners then reach a flake on the right wall of the gully with difficulty. Once established, finish out right on the front of the buttress (4c). It is also possible to start on the left-hand edge of the buttress where a short pumpy traverse right leads to the regular route - a lot less polished but, historically, a rather dubious approach. © Rockfax
FA. Morley Wood early 1920s.
Ticklists
Classic Rock , ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50 , The 100 Best UK VS routes? , The Roaches - Routes Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , 100 Western Grit Stars , Darrencabowabo,s hit list , World Graded List , ULMC Classics , MUMC Ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza , Definitive *** Peak Grit , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , Adventure ticklist 2018 , The Gritlist , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 100 Best Routes on Grit , Absolutely STOKEd on trent (road to western grit mastery) , Peaky , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , The Eal List , 2024 , Roaches 2024 Sends
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Private Flounder | 3 Oct, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Very polished at the bottom but does not take away from this being a brilliant route. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Very polished at the bottom but does not take away from this being a brilliant route. |
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| Ariegeois | 27 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Can be distinctly tricky when damp. Choose a dry spell. Magnificent route! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Can be distinctly tricky when damp. Choose a dry spell. Magnificent route! |
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| mb_manchester | 20 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: not as first VS onsight for those who are keen. in that case it might feel like HVS. bottom section is polished. the gear placement is rope-drag prone and the upper section (final) is hard to read if your head isn't screwed on properly. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: not as first VS onsight for those who are keen. in that case it might feel like HVS. bottom section is polished. the gear placement is rope-drag prone and the upper section (final) is hard to read if your head isn't screwed on properly. |
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| shaun walby | 15 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Excellent stuff, helps if you know excactly were your heading on the start of the second pitch. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Excellent stuff, helps if you know excactly were your heading on the start of the second pitch. |
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| Furzy Sleight | 14 Apr, 2005 |
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βeta: interesting if done in one long pitch! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: interesting if done in one long pitch! |
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| Duz Walker | 21 Nov, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Wonderful.Done when everything horizontal was snow on ice on rock. Unintentional variant middle pitch cross from the twin cracks above the ledge to gain the second belay ledge, exciting span! 3rd pitch a sublime meander. Run out, rope drag and a flop into an icy puddle (all avoidable by those with an ounce of sense). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Wonderful.Done when everything horizontal was snow on ice on rock. Unintentional variant middle pitch cross from the twin cracks above the ledge to gain the second belay ledge, exciting span! 3rd pitch a sublime meander. Run out, rope drag and a flop into an icy puddle (all avoidable by those with an ounce of sense). |
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| MJS | 10 Sep, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: This is an excellent route and friendly at the grade. The holds are shiny but not slippery (when dry). We took 3 pitches and each one was excellent. ONe of the best VSs I've ever done | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: This is an excellent route and friendly at the grade. The holds are shiny but not slippery (when dry). We took 3 pitches and each one was excellent. ONe of the best VSs I've ever done |
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| Alex Thurgood | 26 Jun, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: And it's even more fun/desperate in the rain...Oh those bygone years at Keele Uni, where all we could think about was hitching/bussing out to the Roaches and scaring ourselves s**tless. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: And it's even more fun/desperate in the rain...Oh those bygone years at Keele Uni, where all we could think about was hitching/bussing out to the Roaches and scaring ourselves s**tless. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Roaches Lower Tier
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Bachelor's Climb
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Hen Cloud)