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First day out post lock down
© ipfreely, May 2020

Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties ticklist

contributed by Bloke on a Rope Jan/14

This is all the routes from chapter 9 of Peak Rock. At the start of the 60s John Loy and Alan Clarke continued the tradition of pegging routes at Millstone but they also started to free them with Great Portland St HVS5b and Satan's Slit E15b. Next up are routes from Peter Crew, Martin Boysen, Al Parker and the Alpha Club, during this time the first nuts became available and were sometimes used for aid as well as pro on routes like Orang Outang E25c, The Arete E25c. Also wire brushing became more acceptable on routes like The Brush Off E45c which relies heavily on friction. Allen Austin came on the scene in this time and he can't be mentioned without talking about Western Front E35c and The Wall of Horrors E36a one of the most important leads of the day. In the mid 6os the Black and Tans made their mark with Elegy E25c, Sinn Fein E35c, Usurper E46a and Nectar E46b, again some of these used minimal aid from nuts and slings but it makes for a much better list. Finally right at the end of the 6os Tom Proctor put up Oedipus Ring Your Mother E46b and Green Death E56b, the only E5 on the list.

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Map of routes in this ticklist

Least routes Most routes

Note: Only showing summits, scrambles, winter routes, and low grade climbs

Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
Bond StreetHVS 5a ***282720mMillstone Edge
LubricHVS 5b *2328mMillstone Edge
CrewcutVS 4c **28622mMillstone Edge
Great Portland StreetHVS 5b ***223120mMillstone Edge
Satan's SlitHVS 5b *7114mMillstone Edge
Regent StreetE2 5c ***133322mMillstone Edge
Green DeathE5 5c ***5918mMillstone Edge
The BlurterHVS 5b ***67522mStanage North
Anniversary ArĂȘteE1 5b **241?Stanage North
DesperationE1 6a ***77612mStanage Popular
SurpriseE1 5c *4216mStanage Plantation
Count's Buttress DirectE3 6a *1714mStanage Plantation
DaydreamerE2 6b ***1018mStanage Plantation
Millsom's MinionE1 5b ***171322mStanage Plantation
The TipplerE1 5b ***112518mStanage Popular
Fern GrooveE2 5c **15816mStanage Plantation
QueersvilleHVS 5a ***301616mStanage Popular
EliminatorHVS 5b ***241114mStanage Popular
Yosemite WallE2 5b **64016mStanage Popular
CensorE3 5c ***11916mStanage Popular
CalvaryE4 6a ***30218mStanage Plantation
NectarE4 6b ***4216m• 2Stanage North
Blizzard RidgeHVS 5a ***167714mRivelin Edge
The Brush OffE4 5c ***35010mRivelin Edge
Sinn FeinE3 5c **622mTintwistle Knarr
The ArĂȘteE2 5c ***10722mTintwistle Knarr
PoteenE1 5b **1820mTintwistle Knarr
Millwheel WallE1 5b ***30512mBurbage South...
BoggartE2 6b **8814mBurbage South Edge
Long Tall SallyE1 5b ***202110mBurbage North
Pot BellyE2 5c *514mKinder Northern...
Brother's EliminateE1 5b **1318mKinder Northern...
Little Boy BlueE1 6a *216mKinder Northern...
LegacyHVS 5a ***21720mKinder Northern...
Mustard WallsE2 5c **1916mKinder Northern...
Mummy CrackE1 5b *78mKinder Northern...
Extinguisher ChimneyVS 4c ***1318mKinder Downfall
Ocean WallE1 5b ***13016mStanding Stones
Wall and BulgeE2 5b **1010mWimberry Rocks
GalileoE1 5c **17618mShining Clough
East RibHVS 5a ***32714mShining Clough
Pisa Super DirectHVS 5a ***43120mShining Clough
YerthE2 5c *2915mShining Clough
NaadenE1 5b *4812mShining Clough
The Big WallE3 6a **3320mShining Clough
Western FrontE3 5c ***37813mAlmscliff
The Wall of HorrorsE3 6a ***26418mAlmscliff
Left-hand Pillar CrackE1 5b **7910mGardom's Edge
Vaya Con DiosE2 5c **3020mGardom's Edge
Undercut CrackE2 5c **658mBamford Edge
MoglichkeitHS 4b 1308mBamford Edge
Quien Sabe?VS 4c ***155114mBamford Edge
Chequers ButtressHVS 5a ***349014mFroggatt Edge
Long John's SlabE3 5c **78414mFroggatt Edge
Oedipus Ring Your MotherE4 6b **1838mFroggatt Edge
ScroachE2 5c **10921mCurbar Edge
UsurperE4 6a ***12312mCurbar Edge
L'HorlaE1 5b ***100910mCurbar Edge
EncouragementE1 5b ***18028m• 2Hen Cloud
The Long and ShortE1 5b *1625m• 2Hen Cloud
WombatE2 5b ***34720mRoaches Upper Tier
WallerooE2 5c **6620mRoaches Upper Tier
West's WallabyVS 4c *30324mRoaches Upper Tier
ElegyE2 5c ***51616mRoaches Lower Tier
The SwanE3 5c ***13926mRoaches Lower Tier
Great West RoadE3 5b ***27634m• 2Millstone Edge
Orang-outangE2 5c ***36112mStanage North
104 e, 157 stars34,6391,102m• 71
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