Rockfax Description
A classic with hard climbing, good runners and some lo-o-ong reaches. Climb a crack to a flat roof then stretch left to a thin crack and climb this (hard) to a ledge on the arete. A large Friend might be found of use hereabouts. Make difficult moves into a cave (often dirty) and then easier - at least for the tall - moves out of it. The short may have to avoid this last section on the left. © Rockfax
FA. Mike Simpkins 1960s. FFA. John Allen 1975.
ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors) , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , On Peak Rock , John Allen (gritstone) megamix
User | Date | Notes | ||
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steveb2006 | 6 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: The friend 4 placement is off route to the left in a grassy niche - it needs extending quite a bit. Cant see how anything smaller would fit unless you bury it deep in the crack. If you are feeling brave and ethical you can leave the friend 4 behind - there are reasonable small wire placements in a little horizontal crack at the foot of the crux wall. As for me I felt happier with the friend 4 in as I didnt think the top wall was a piece of piss (Maybe if your very tall it is!). | βeta? | |
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βeta: The friend 4 placement is off route to the left in a grassy niche - it needs extending quite a bit. Cant see how anything smaller would fit unless you bury it deep in the crack. If you are feeling brave and ethical you can leave the friend 4 behind - there are reasonable small wire placements in a little horizontal crack at the foot of the crux wall. As for me I felt happier with the friend 4 in as I didnt think the top wall was a piece of piss (Maybe if your very tall it is!). |
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Chris Shorter | 15 May, 2002 |
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βeta: One big piece is useful to stick in the crack above the cave before committing to the crux moves up the wall to the right. Friend 4 or something a bit bigger will do. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: One big piece is useful to stick in the crack above the cave before committing to the crux moves up the wall to the right. Friend 4 or something a bit bigger will do. |
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Grade: E3 5b ***
(Stanage Plantation)