Rockfax Description
Climb into a small recess then make difficult moves to the ledge. The thin crack on the left is well battered but a discreet wire to the right protects moves on slopers to easy ground - varied.
Going right over the top roof is The El Cap Finish, E2 5b. © Rockfax
FA. Alan Clarke 1965.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Stanage E2 Challenge (1989 Guide) , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Cake | 10 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Pretty decent friend above and right of the ledge | ||
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βeta: Pretty decent friend above and right of the ledge |
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Joe Costello | 14 Apr, 2007 |
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βeta: Quite easy for E2 but probably about right I suppose with the mid-heigth crack getting a bit worn. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Quite easy for E2 but probably about right I suppose with the mid-heigth crack getting a bit worn. |
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Nige M | 5 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: There is good gear on the right side of the slab before you make any hard moves (small friend - Z3) making the route much less bold. The El Cap Finish over the top roof is worth doing. | ||
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βeta: There is good gear on the right side of the slab before you make any hard moves (small friend - Z3) making the route much less bold. The El Cap Finish over the top roof is worth doing. |
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JMarkW | 19 Feb, 2006 |
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βeta: The poor runners in the thin crack are fairly useless. The wire below the ledge is a long way below when you are on the upper slab. Bold. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The poor runners in the thin crack are fairly useless. The wire below the ledge is a long way below when you are on the upper slab. Bold. |
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Robo | 13 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: Easy sloper pulling for the bold. Terrifying for the limestone climber, I'd imagine. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Easy sloper pulling for the bold. Terrifying for the limestone climber, I'd imagine. |
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gav p | 14 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: Definitely easier gaining the ledge on the left. A decent looking small wire can be fiddled in below foot level on the right side of the ledge. This, combined with a bomber cam lower on the route, should prevent a deck from the steep slab. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Definitely easier gaining the ledge on the left. A decent looking small wire can be fiddled in below foot level on the right side of the ledge. This, combined with a bomber cam lower on the route, should prevent a deck from the steep slab. |
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Grade: E2 5b ***
(Eastwood Rocks)