22m.

Rockfax Description
A fine and devious pitch - care with rope-work is required or you will get pulled up short. Climb the chimney to an awkward traverse left under the roof. Gain the groove awkwardly and climb it to a step right. Pull over a bulge then trend left past the arete to the juggy north-facing wall. © Rockfax

FA. Al Parker 1959.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage *** HVS's , Stanage 3 Star HVS's - Eastern Grit , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , Ultimate HVS ticklist , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Severe Stanage , The Gritlist , Stanage HVS Challenge , Stanage HVS Challenge - All the 3* , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , I’ve climbed a thousand VDiffs but I wanna be a HVS climber , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 3* HVS at Bamford, Stanage, Burbage, Millstone, Froggatt, and Curbar , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , *** HVS on Peak Gritstone

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User Date Notes
jimbonfire 24 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Couple of tech moves 5a? Then rest is more straightforward
βeta?
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βeta: Couple of tech moves 5a? Then rest is more straightforward
Swig 15 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Sorry, that should read "you're" not "your".
βeta?
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βeta: Sorry, that should read "you're" not "your".
Swig 15 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: If your me you put some gear in and then remove it so you can make upward progress. The rope drag was a nightmare. The best bits of the route are in the lower half.
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βeta: If your me you put some gear in and then remove it so you can make upward progress. The rope drag was a nightmare. The best bits of the route are in the lower half.
GrahamD 24 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A classic dilema ! do you stuff gear in the high slot in the groove or do you keep it free for your fingers ?
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βeta: A classic dilema ! do you stuff gear in the high slot in the groove or do you keep it free for your fingers ?
Andy Hobson 31 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A good route; HVS 5b seems spot on. The traverse is ok once you commit and the move up into the groove requires a bit of thhought as well as good use of your feet. More awkward than hard. 2 stars as it's a bit too escapable higher up and seemed a bit scrappy after the groove.
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βeta: A good route; HVS 5b seems spot on. The traverse is ok once you commit and the move up into the groove requires a bit of thhought as well as good use of your feet. More awkward than hard. 2 stars as it's a bit too escapable higher up and seemed a bit scrappy after the groove.
MNA123 23 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: My first 5b lead and i found it quite overbearing especially as my gear fell out goin up the side of the overhang just after the traverse. The finally moves are good adrenaline pumpers as well.
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βeta: My first 5b lead and i found it quite overbearing especially as my gear fell out goin up the side of the overhang just after the traverse. The finally moves are good adrenaline pumpers as well.
Neil Morbey 25 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Absoultely fantastic route! Definetly one for double ropes though! try and get a mate to run up the crag and take a photo of the finish from the left. Awsome!
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βeta: Absoultely fantastic route! Definetly one for double ropes though! try and get a mate to run up the crag and take a photo of the finish from the left. Awsome!
Stefan Kruger 29 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Found this very hard for the grade. Traverse is delicate, and the groove is scary and sketchy. Or perhaps I'm just a bit of a blouse?
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βeta: Found this very hard for the grade. Traverse is delicate, and the groove is scary and sketchy. Or perhaps I'm just a bit of a blouse?
Vics 8 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Tried to be careful with my rope work but still felt like I was dragging a 10 ton truck up on 2nd.
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βeta: Tried to be careful with my rope work but still felt like I was dragging a 10 ton truck up on 2nd.
The Pylon King 18 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: bit over rated though traverse is nice
βeta?
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βeta: bit over rated though traverse is nice

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Voting
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Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
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Votes cast 132
High 5c
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High 5b
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Votes cast 127
Votes cast 122
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Scoop

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)

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