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75m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A phenomenal route that traces an audacious line across the face taking in territory reserved for much harder climbs. Often touted, rightly so, as one of the best climbs in the country. Start in a small corner right of a block.
1) 4a, 24m. Move up to ledges on the right. Work up and left across the wall to meet the right-leaning crack just above a small clump of vegetation. Climb up the crack past a spike and continue in the same line to a grassy ledge and belay.
2) 4b, 18m. Take the poorly-protected short wall above to below a steepening. Traverse left to a groove and follow this to a belay at the beginning of a traverse line that leads right.
3) 4a, 18m. Continue the traverse for 10m and then climb up to a ledge. Traverse right to a belay just before a pinnacle.
4) 4a, 25m. Gain a pinnacle on the right. Move back left to a crack and climb it until an exposed move right accesses the top of the huge pillar. Continue up the wall above to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A true classic, winding its way through some very impressive rock architecture. Start right of a rightward-leaning crack/corner in the centre of the wall.
1.) 20m, climb the wall just right of the crack, until a step left can be made into the crack, which is followed to a ledge. An ascending traverse right leads to a ledge at the foot of a wall.
2.) 17m, the wall above is climbed to a broken ledge and corner on the left. Climb the crack in the corner followed by the right wall to a slab that leads to a corner.
3.) 15m, semi hand traverse 10m right in a sensational position to a corner. Climb the rib on the right to a ledge.
4.) 23m, ascend the small pinnacle on the right, then step left into the crack which is followed to a rock ledge. Easy climbing leads to the top of the ridge.

H.M. Kelly and R.E.W Pritchard Jul/1923.

Ticklists

Classic Rock, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, 50 Best HS Routes in the UK., Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, My List, Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe, Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS, 2016 Targets, Tom Ripley's best UK HS climbs, #RadTradGirl UK HS/VS climbs Easter 2017, Lakeland's Greatest Pioneers, Arc'teryx Lakeland Revival 2017, The Great Gumclub Ticklist, The Original 'Classic Rock' List, Adventure ticklist 2018, Lakes Hard Severe and Mild VS, One day multipitch, UK Holiday Plans, The best the lakes has to offer for mere mortals (because it's not always as wet as kez thinks), Nuts of Legends, Ultimate HS ticklist, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District, Lake District Classic Rock Challenge, Mountain Rock, ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50, 2020 Trips, Lakes Classic and Hard Rock Selection, A Lakeland Apprenticeship

Feedback

User Date Notes
Purple 21 Sep Show βeta
βeta: The in-situ abseil rope mentioned in very recent feedback entries was gone. The abseil station was in good condition however - approx 30 metres descent into lower Great Hell Gate.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The in-situ abseil rope mentioned in very recent feedback entries was gone. The abseil station was in good condition however - approx 30 metres descent into lower Great Hell Gate.
daryln 19 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Used the in situ abseil rope to get down. It doesn’t quite make it to the scree and appears like another ab is needed but it’s an easy (in walking boots) 3m traverse off to the right (facing wall) to the floor
 
Show beta
βeta: Used the in situ abseil rope to get down. It doesn’t quite make it to the scree and appears like another ab is needed but it’s an easy (in walking boots) 3m traverse off to the right (facing wall) to the floor
JayEdwards 23 Aug Show βeta
βeta: The in situ static rope at the top to abseil down the gully doesn’t reach the bottom. I would abseil down on your own ropes
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The in situ static rope at the top to abseil down the gully doesn’t reach the bottom. I would abseil down on your own ropes
tbm 25 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Some seepage on the bottom two pitches, but avoidable
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Some seepage on the bottom two pitches, but avoidable

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High VS
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Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 163
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 152
Votes cast 157
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Wasdale Crack

Grade: HS 4c ***
(The Napes)