A phenomenal route that traces an audacious line across the face taking in territory reserved for much harder climbs. Often touted, rightly so, as one of the best climbs in the country. Start in a small corner right of a block.
1) 4a, 24m. Move up to ledges on the right. Work up and left across the wall to meet the right-leaning crack just above a small clump of vegetation. Climb up the crack past a spike and continue in the same line to a grassy ledge and belay.
2) 4b, 18m. Take the poorly-protected short wall above to below a steepening. Traverse left to a groove and follow this to a belay at the beginning of a traverse line that leads right.
3) 4a, 18m. Continue the traverse for 10m and then climb up to a ledge. Traverse right to a belay just before a pinnacle.
4) 4a, 25m. Gain a pinnacle on the right. Move back left to a crack and climb it until an exposed move right accesses the top of the huge pillar. Continue up the wall above to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A true classic, winding its way through some very impressive rock architecture. Start right of a rightward-leaning crack/corner in the centre of the wall.
1.) 20m, climb the wall just right of the crack, until a step left can be made into the crack, which is followed to a ledge. An ascending traverse right leads to a ledge at the foot of a wall.
2.) 17m, the wall above is climbed to a broken ledge and corner on the left. Climb the crack in the corner followed by the right wall to a slab that leads to a corner.
3.) 15m, semi hand traverse 10m right in a sensational position to a corner. Climb the rib on the right to a ledge.
4.) 23m, ascend the small pinnacle on the right, then step left into the crack which is followed to a rock ledge. Easy climbing leads to the top of the ridge.
H.M. Kelly and R.E.W Pritchard Jul/1923.
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