Restricted Access

The BMC Access Fund and Patagonia equipment funded footpath stabilisation work at the crag in early 2000.

16 October 2020 - The parking for Shepherds Crag at Lodore Farm is closed. Please look to park elsewhere: Kettlewell or Bowderstone car parks , bus from Keswick or cycle. We need to respectful of the owner’s decision. The Lakes area access reps are hoping to meet with the owner soon.

03 January 2023 - Rockfall reported "I was walking below shepherds crag on Jan 1st, and found what appears to be a very recent rockfall.

I don't know the crag, so can't tell you what route it was near, but walking from the south of the crag it was just before the path starts to drop steeply near the north end.

It was dusk, so I couldn't see where the rock had fallen from (low down, or higher up), but it seemed to have a smashed tree associated with the debris.  Main block was probably 2m x 1.5m x 1.5m approx.  No idea if routes are affected at all, but I suspect that the area needs to be inspected by someone competent in the area of safety/stability of rock.

Update to follow once area has been investigated. 

70m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
One of the UK's most popular multi-pitch climbs - a true classic - long, varied and with a much photographed top pitch. Start below a short right-facing corner/crack 5m right of the pinnacle.

1) 28m. Climb the short right-facing corner/crack then move right to a corner and ramp that leads to a grassy bay with trees. Scramble up right to a large tree belay.
2) 10m. Scramble up past trees to a belay below twin grooves.
3) 23m. Climb the left-hand groove and, at its end, gain the top of a block. Sidle right along it and get established in a slabby corner. Follow the arete to a stance and belays.
4) 11m. Head up the wall to a small pinnacle and, from its top, climb the short steep exposed wall to the top (or the crack right of the pinnacle). © Rockfax

Ticklists

Classic Rock , Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs , Very good routes in the UK , UK's best Diffs and V.diffs , Heather's Multipitch Climbs , Shepherd's Crag - top 25 , Must-do routes , Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , CUMC Ticklist , ULMC Classics , MUMC Ticklist , ICAS Climbing Club , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , The Great Gumclub Ticklist , Welcome to CUMC , Memorable Climbs , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , Borrowdale FRCC Guide 'Top Fives' , "First Steps" Arc'teryx Lakeland Revival 2019 Ticklist , The best the lakes has to offer for mere mortals (because it's not always as wet as kez thinks) , EUMC - Must do climbs , Nuts of Legends , York University Students path to greatness , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District , Lake District Classic Rock Challenge , Mountain Rock , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , Bill Birkett (Classic Rock Climbs in the Lake District) Below E3 , 2020/21 Trips , STAUMC Ticklist , A Lakeland Apprenticeship , Lakeland VS Walking Tour , Rock Stars Trad Routes , Snowdonia and The Lakes Classic Rock Summer Challenge , Lakes 2022 , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , 24 For 2024! , LSMC to do , Dream Challenge (The BIG ONE) , Lake District Multipitch Climbing , Summertime Travels 2022 , Dan’s Delights , UKC Top 20 Climbs (Not Grit) , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Dewimpification , Lake District Ultimate Ticklist , Chasing Stars across the UK , Top 25 routes , UKC Other Rock Types Top 20 Wishlist Climbs , Matt's Bucketlist , (V)Diffs to end all (V)Diffs , 5 (V)Diffs to end all (V)Diffs

Feedback

User Date Notes
Estrix 30 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Loose flake of rock in the first groove, right in the middle and not to far off the ground. Climbing buddy attempted to mark it with chalk.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Loose flake of rock in the first groove, right in the middle and not to far off the ground. Climbing buddy attempted to mark it with chalk.
whenry 2 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Blue tits are nesting in the tree at the first belay.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Blue tits are nesting in the tree at the first belay.
Mich Mash 29 Apr Show βeta
βeta: With all the polish, felt tricky for vdiff. Ran pitch 3+4 together no prob..pitched 1+2 but would have been better to run 1+2 together also. Last pitches are worth 3 polished stars.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: With all the polish, felt tricky for vdiff. Ran pitch 3+4 together no prob..pitched 1+2 but would have been better to run 1+2 together also. Last pitches are worth 3 polished stars.
milanboez 28 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: First 2 pitches more a scramble - spicy last 2 pitches for vdiff! Whole route easily done in 2 pitches. No cams needed - just nuts, hexes and slings.
Show beta
βeta: First 2 pitches more a scramble - spicy last 2 pitches for vdiff! Whole route easily done in 2 pitches. No cams needed - just nuts, hexes and slings.
Fruit 11 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Summer evening on classic rocker meet
Show beta
βeta: Summer evening on classic rocker meet
andybuckley 7 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Not easily seen from the Saddle, but the nicely slingable belay spike above has a little chockstone behind and can be used as a super-secure thread.
Show beta
βeta: Not easily seen from the Saddle, but the nicely slingable belay spike above has a little chockstone behind and can be used as a super-secure thread.
Stanley 12 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route. Pitch 2 and 3 can easily be run together with no rope drag. The only reason I wouldn't do that is if you want to be able to see the leader as they do the 'block move' - which is interesting!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route. Pitch 2 and 3 can easily be run together with no rope drag. The only reason I wouldn't do that is if you want to be able to see the leader as they do the 'block move' - which is interesting!
PilkingtonD 25 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 2 doesn’t exist, climb through to the saddle from the belay on p.1
Show beta
βeta: Pitch 2 doesn’t exist, climb through to the saddle from the belay on p.1
Ab Wilson 22 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Don't bother pitching the 2nd guide book pitch. Belay pitch 3 from pitch 1 belay. I'm not going to add any beta about the block move because it's much too much fun to have to work it out for yourself.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Don't bother pitching the 2nd guide book pitch. Belay pitch 3 from pitch 1 belay. I'm not going to add any beta about the block move because it's much too much fun to have to work it out for yourself.
Apollo7 27 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Ended up doing pitch 3+4 together, fantastic route
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Ended up doing pitch 3+4 together, fantastic route
raussmf 10 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Lived up to the hype. Had the route to ourselves. Accidently did last 2 pitches in one and topped out still looking for the much hyped last pitch! Wouldn't reccomend the hard descent to the left...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lived up to the hype. Had the route to ourselves. Accidently did last 2 pitches in one and topped out still looking for the much hyped last pitch! Wouldn't reccomend the hard descent to the left...
MikeStuart 11 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Quite a few loose holds on final 2 meters of the last pitch
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Quite a few loose holds on final 2 meters of the last pitch
steve7264 8 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic, not too polished for a peak boulderer! Even with the recent rain, a lot of fun, great last pitch!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic, not too polished for a peak boulderer! Even with the recent rain, a lot of fun, great last pitch!
aphelps85 15 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Due to footfall, very well polished rock.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Due to footfall, very well polished rock.
Patrick Milne 16 Mar, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Saddle belay block feels slightly loose.
Show beta
βeta: Saddle belay block feels slightly loose.
SpannerClimbs 8 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Nicely done in 3 pitches. The belay spot for pitch 2 is full of ants so be aware!
Show beta
βeta: Nicely done in 3 pitches. The belay spot for pitch 2 is full of ants so be aware!
tristanorchard 6 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: A nice route although often very busy, better taken in 3 pitches, good views from the top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A nice route although often very busy, better taken in 3 pitches, good views from the top.
The Coastal 30 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Great 3 star classic
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great 3 star classic

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Voting
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
Low HD
Votes cast 618
Votes cast 619
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
DWS
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Route 1

Grade: VD ***
(Scout Crags)

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