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53m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The route of the crag. A brilliant direct line tackling the main face by a series of grooves and cracks. The climbing is sustained but never desperate.
1) 5b, 35m. Start below the long crack, slightly left of a steep groove which is often wet. Climb the juggy rib on the left then pull up on good holds to the grassy break (possible belay). Climb steeply up the sustained crack which has good gear but strenuous moves. Alternatively you can bypass this by a bold (but technically easier) detour to the left at 5a. Continue up the crack above, which gets much easier, to a good belay by a tree (historically there was a nest here).
2) 5a, 20m. Pull right and climb the rib and cracks to gain some more cracks on the headwall. Superb exposed climbing up these leads to the a ledge on the right. Pull back left for a steep finish. A brilliant pitch with plenty of gear. © Rockfax

L Brown, A L Atkinson 26/Mar/1960.

Ticklists

Hard Rock, Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain, Preston Mountaineering Club First Ascents, Ultimate E1 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, Tom Ripley's Top 5 E1 Climbs, Cerith's Lancaster Wishlist, A Lakeland E1 Odessey, Hard Rock 2020, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District, The best the lakes has to offer for mere mortals (because it's not always as wet as kez thinks), ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50, Hard Rock 2020, Les Brown Lake District routes, Lakes Classic and Hard Rock Selection, A Lakeland Apprenticeship, 60 At 60

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alan James - UKC and UKH 9 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Best climbed in two pitches missing out the lower stance. The best line is the 5b direct up the crack (not the bold 5a detour) which means the hard moves would be directly above the belayer if you took this lower stance. There is no nest (or smell) on the belay by the tree. The top pitch is brilliant.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Best climbed in two pitches missing out the lower stance. The best line is the 5b direct up the crack (not the bold 5a detour) which means the hard moves would be directly above the belayer if you took this lower stance. There is no nest (or smell) on the belay by the tree. The top pitch is brilliant.

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Route of Interest

Sunshine Super Sal

Grade: E1 ***
(Murton Scar)