Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Signed restriction, applies to the whole crag. 

The site will be monitored and the restriction lifted if nesting does not take place, or later if the young birds fledge early. This page will be kept updated as soon as any additional information is received.

53m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The route of the crag. A brilliant direct line tackling the main face by a series of grooves and cracks. The climbing is sustained but never desperate.
1) 5b, 35m. Start below the long crack, slightly left of a steep groove which is often wet. Climb the juggy rib on the left then pull up on good holds to the grassy break (possible belay). Climb steeply up the sustained crack which has good gear but strenuous moves. Alternatively it is possible to bypass this by a bold (but technically easier) detour to the left at 5a. Continue up the crack above, which gets much easier, to a good belay by a tree (historically there was a nest here).
2) 5a, 20m. Pull right and climb the rib and cracks to gain some more cracks on the headwall. Superb exposed climbing up these leads to a ledge on the right. Pull back left to gain a steep finish. A brilliant pitch with plenty of gear. © Rockfax

L Brown, A L Atkinson 26/Mar/1960.

Ticklists

Hard Rock , Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain , Preston Mountaineering Club First Ascents , Ultimate E1 ticklist , UK Lonely Leads , Tom Ripley's Top 5 E1 Climbs , A Lakeland E1 Odessey , Hard Rock 2020 , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District , The best the lakes has to offer for mere mortals (because it's not always as wet as kez thinks) , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , Les Brown Lake District routes , Lakes Classic and Hard Rock Selection , A Lakeland Apprenticeship , 60 At 60 , Lakeland E1 Classics , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , Lakes Hard Rock , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Lake District To Do List , Lake District Ultimate Ticklist , Cumbria for the Recreational User

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alan James - Rockfax 9 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Best climbed in two pitches missing out the lower stance. The best line is the 5b direct up the crack (not the bold 5a detour) which means the hard moves would be directly above the belayer if you took this lower stance. There is no nest (or smell) on the belay by the tree. The top pitch is brilliant.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Best climbed in two pitches missing out the lower stance. The best line is the 5b direct up the crack (not the bold 5a detour) which means the hard moves would be directly above the belayer if you took this lower stance. There is no nest (or smell) on the belay by the tree. The top pitch is brilliant.

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Guidebooks for Heron Crag, Eskdale

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 84
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 82
Votes cast 74
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Buttonhook Route

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Kern Knotts)

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