The route of the crag. A brilliant direct line tackling the main face by a series of grooves and cracks. The climbing is sustained but never desperate.
1) 5b, 35m. Start below the long crack, slightly left of a steep groove which is often wet. Climb the juggy rib on the left then pull up on good holds to the grassy break (possible belay). Climb steeply up the sustained crack which has good gear but strenuous moves. Alternatively it is possible to bypass this by a bold (but technically easier) detour to the left at 5a. Continue up the crack above, which gets much easier, to a good belay by a tree (historically there was a nest here).
2) 5a, 20m. Pull right and climb the rib and cracks to gain some more cracks on the headwall. Superb exposed climbing up these leads to a ledge on the right. Pull back left to gain a steep finish. A brilliant pitch with plenty of gear. © Rockfax
L Brown, A L Atkinson 26/Mar/1960.
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