UKH

67m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The major Bosigran classic that combines superb rock, climbing and position in about equal measures. Start at a broken corner below the leaning brown wall capped with overhangs.
1) 4a, 27m. Scramble up the broken corner past a block to a point at which a diagonal break leads up rightwards under the leaning brown wall. Follow the diagonal break all the way to a belay on a ledge at its end. This pitch can seep after rain.
2) 4b, 15m. Climb twin cracks on the left, at first using the left one and then the right to another good ledge and belay.
3) 4a, 25m. Move out left and follow cracks and huge holds up the left wall of the corner, finishing just left of the capping overhangs. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Classic Rock , Kernow , West Country Climbs , 50 Best HS Routes in the UK. , Rockfax West Country top 50 , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , HS Climbs to do in Summer 2014 , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe , CUMC Ticklist , South West VDiff-HVS , CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics , Diamond in the Rough , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Tom Ripley's best UK HS climbs , #RadTradGirl UK HS/VS climbs Easter 2017 , Libby Peter's HS Hit List , Memorable Climbs , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , University of Exeter must tick's , Definitive *** West Cornwall , Ultimate HS ticklist , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , 2020/21 Trips , Cornwall 2021 , Classic Rock Climbs in Southern England by Bill Birkett , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West , UKC Top 20 Climbs (Not Grit)

Feedback

User Date Notes
PaulTanton 18 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Still someone nesting in the RH crack
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Still someone nesting in the RH crack
Kike Kikon 21 Jun Show βeta
βeta: There's a fulmar nest on the horizontal break on P2. If you don't fancy a fishy scent, make sure you climb on the left crack of the twin cracks.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There's a fulmar nest on the horizontal break on P2. If you don't fancy a fishy scent, make sure you climb on the left crack of the twin cracks.
Tall Oak 17 May Show βeta
βeta: Easy climbing to ease the tradhead back in
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Easy climbing to ease the tradhead back in
LarsLLM 19 Apr Show βeta
βeta: First pitch on the slanting ledge is quite narrow.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First pitch on the slanting ledge is quite narrow.
Butty 12 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Good route with hero jugs to finish. P1 is the crux imo
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good route with hero jugs to finish. P1 is the crux imo
PastyBoy84 12 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Final pitch is fantastic and exposed to finish.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Final pitch is fantastic and exposed to finish.
Rob84 23 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Easy to do in two pitches by running the top two pitches together. It seems odd that it’s not the standard way to do it given they are in a perfectly straight line and are about 30m combined.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Easy to do in two pitches by running the top two pitches together. It seems odd that it’s not the standard way to do it given they are in a perfectly straight line and are about 30m combined.
I Taylor 25 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Recommend doing pitches 2 & 3 in one pitch.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Recommend doing pitches 2 & 3 in one pitch.
surfboybert 16 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Superb climbing, high in the grade if you\'re not used to the local grading, compared to N\'Wales.
Show beta
βeta: Superb climbing, high in the grade if you're not used to the local grading, compared to N'Wales.

Logged Ascents

3492 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Bosigran

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 398 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 288
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 274
Votes cast 294
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Box of Delights

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Vicarage Cliff)

Loading Notifications...