52m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Bosigran's most celebrated Extreme and one of its most exciting. Start by scrambling up a corner and crack to a stance under the leaning light brown wall.
1) 5b, 26m. Follow a line of surprisingly good holds out rightwards across the impressive wall to a small spike. Continue up a crack, past a horizontal crack with what looks like a pancake of rock sandwiched in it, to a traverse-line slightly higher. Strenuous moves rightwards lead immediately into more technical ground that gains a cramped slab under an overhang. Move right and pull through the overhang to a belay just above.
2) 5b, 26m. Make an exposed traverse left along the lip of the overhang to meet a diagonal break that leads more easily back rightwards to the top of the crag. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Hard Rock , West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , Ultimate E2 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings , Extreme 2018 , Hard Rock 2020 , Definitive *** West Cornwall , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Best of the rest and the ones that got away , Pre-departure , Cornwall 2021 , Cornwall , Classic Rock Climbs in Southern England by Bill Birkett , Top 25 E Grades in the southwest , South West in Extremis , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Devon and surrounding counties 50 E2 and some E3 and a few E4 and an E5 , Cornwall - October 2023

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tom Hill 16 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Reiterating the loose flake at the start of P1 proper. Shifted a fair bit when moving off the top of it so took a lower traverse line.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Reiterating the loose flake at the start of P1 proper. Shifted a fair bit when moving off the top of it so took a lower traverse line.
Larry Benoy 26 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Flake right at the bottom of P1 is sounding worryingly loose and is right above belay platform, care needed
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Flake right at the bottom of P1 is sounding worryingly loose and is right above belay platform, care needed
Daniel Schubert 21 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Number 3 wall nut protects the treverse on p2 ver well. Pitch 1 belay is bomber, high big blue cam plus red cam.
Show beta
βeta: Number 3 wall nut protects the treverse on p2 ver well. Pitch 1 belay is bomber, high big blue cam plus red cam.
Graeme Hammond 31 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The Climbers Club guide shows the line of P2 not traversing the lip of the overhang as per the route description "along the on the lip of the overhang" where the rock is clean and chalked rock (+ rockfax line) but on the slab above the belay.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The Climbers Club guide shows the line of P2 not traversing the lip of the overhang as per the route description "along the on the lip of the overhang" where the rock is clean and chalked rock (+ rockfax line) but on the slab above the belay.
Rachael Ellis 17 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Led pitch 2, fell off under the roof.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Led pitch 2, fell off under the roof.
richgac 3 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Good small cams in the overlap before / above the flexible flake
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good small cams in the overlap before / above the flexible flake
danieljames123 25 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The flake at the very start of the route is very much detached and moves if pulled on. Use it carefully and avoid putting pro behind it
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The flake at the very start of the route is very much detached and moves if pulled on. Use it carefully and avoid putting pro behind it

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 105
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 108
Votes cast 90
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Madonna of the Waves

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Vessacks West)

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