Contributed by George Muston Aug/20 - This public hilllist has been seen 305 times

The best routes in West Penwith for honing your trad skills. Routes are listed in order of difficulty, both in terms of the order they have been listed, and the grade by which they have been divided. I've included everything up to low/mid grade HVS. I can't give you any of the individual info on any of the routes on here, so if there's anything you want to know firstly check UKC comments, and/or secondly drop me a line. I will send you separately a list of hazards you need to be aware of for each crag. Mega classics like Commando Ridge and Right Angle have not been included as you will want CONSIDERABLE experience of ropework/abseiling, and the like before you do them in order to enjoy them properly. Esoteric but good crags have been left out, these will be worth exploring when you have the experience needed, but not before. You will want/need a copy of West Country Climbs and/or the Climbers Club North and South Coast Cornwall guidebooks. Enjoy!

Sam leading main pitch  © Steve Woollard
Sam leading main pitch
© Steve Woollard, Mar 2015

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User Percentage Latest Log
1st George Muston 68% 11 Apr, 2022
2nd JenkinsCW 26% 7 Jun
3rd L.Bruten 13% 29 May, 2021
4th James Coates 8% 5 Sep, 2020
5th a.lloydharris 7% 6 May
6th Joshua Brumpton 5% 27 Sep, 2020

Map of routes in this ticklist

Least routes Most routes

Note: Only showing summits, scrambles, winter routes, and low grade climbs

Distribution of grades - Trad

Top 12 photos of this hilllist

Demo Route

Demo Route
© rhudson

Splash

Terrier's Tooth
Splash
© Glenachulish

Jen Oliver on the famous last few moves of Demo Route

Demo Route
Jen Oliver on the famous last few moves of Demo Route
© Luke Carroll

First time leading a route since losing my leg 4 years ago.

Alison Rib
First time leading a route since losing my leg 4 years ago.
© Marc Elliott

Saxon

Saxon
© Hamish Frost

Getting some in between the showers. Luwi following Fraser up Shorty's Folly.

Shorty's Folly
Getting some in between the showers. Luwi following Fraser up Shorty's Folly.
© Tom Last

Sennen Cove…  Demo Route

Demo Route
Sennen Cove… Demo Route
© Marc Elliott

Demo Route

Demo Route
Demo Route
© darrenpp

Checking out that move ........

Demo Route
Checking out that move ........
© Sean Kelly

If only that top layback was longer....!

Demo Route
If only that top layback was longer....!
© Dave Wylie

Nick on Saxon

Saxon
Nick on Saxon
© 1234None

Emily sampling the Cornish granite

Black Slab
Emily sampling the Cornish granite
© henrygiles99


Add Climb name Grade Ticks? Height Crag name
DIFF
Corner and Staircase D * 969 13m Roche Rock
Junior's Route D ** 672 20m Sennen
Senior's Route D * 906 20m Sennen
Staircase D ** 1716 18m Sennen
A Little Gemma D * 108 20m Pen Olver
Main Face Climb D ** 864 23m • 2 Sennen
Alison Rib D *** 4270 59m • 3 Bosigran
Sinner's Route D ** 570 24m • 2 Sennen
Black Slab D ** 1368 43m • 2 Bosigran
The Groove D 203 12m Trewavas
VDIFF
Bending Chimney VD * 518 17m Trewavas
Ivy Chimney VD 331 14m Trewavas
Blind Pew VD ** 275 25m Pen Olver
Great Slanting VD ** 228 15m Pen Olver
Sancho VD * 488 18m Trewavas
In-Between VD ** 1684 33m Bosigran
Kate VD * 1037 33m Bosigran
Big Top VD * 1446 25m Bosigran
Corner Climb VD ** 2099 20m Sennen
Banana Flake VD ** 1746 22m • 2 Sennen
Black Slab VD * 840 24m • 2 Sennen
Dowser's Route/Porthgwarra Face VD *** 269 42m • 3 Porthgwarra...
Peel Crack HVD ** 391 15m Carn Barra
Rake's Progress VD ** 187 56m • 4 Chair Ladder
Oread HVD * 1349 33m Bosigran
Intermediate Route HVD * 1167 19m • 2 Sennen
No Name HVD ** 697 20m Sennen
Ledge Climb HVD *** 1699 73m • 3 Bosigran
South East Buttress VD ** 485 18m Roche Rock
SEVERE
Mouseproof S 4a * 676 13m Trewavas
Tregagle's Crack S 4a * 788 8m Roche Rock
Hubble Drect S 4a 160 15m Trewavas
Joy S 4a * 879 18m Trewavas
Ochre Slab Route II S 4a ** 1111 32m • 2 Bosigran
Saltheart S 4a * 170 15m Pen Olver
Doorway S 4a ** 2068 60m • 3 Bosigran
Pendulum Chimney S 4b *** 1069 59m • 5 Chair Ladder
Helluva Slab S 4a ** 291 43m • 3 Porthgwarra...
Dong S 4b ** 780 39m • 3 Bosigran
Red Wall HS 4b ** 318 54m • 4 Chair Ladder
HARD SEVERE
Cornel HS 4b * 389 12m Trewavas
Sidestep HS 4b * 213 17m Trewavas
Tregagle's Buttress HS 4b ** 474 8m Roche Rock
Doorpost HS 4b *** 3858 67m • 3 Bosigran
Autumn Flakes HS 4b ** 1020 56m • 3 Bosigran
Flannel Avenue HS 4b *** 373 52m • 3 Chair Ladder
Demo Route HS 4b *** 3677 19m • 2 Sennen
Terrier's Tooth HS 4b *** 544 40m • 3 Chair Ladder
Letterbox HS 4b ** 1026 22m • 2 Sennen
Civvy Route HS 4b ** 1083 22m • 2 Sennen
Pegasus HS 4b *** 706 70m • 3 Chair Ladder
GOOD FIRST VS'S
Moping Owl VS 4c * 353 19m Roche Rock
Mascara VS 4c ** 692 20m Trewavas
Joy Direct VS 4c * 240 18m Trewavas
Vertical Crack VS 4c ** 1174 20m Sennen
Double Overhang VS 4c ** 1157 18m Sennen
Avalanche VS 5a ** 536 14m Trewavas
Porky VS 4c ** 820 17m Roche Rock
The Arête VS 4b ** 922 27m Sennen
Monday Face VS 4b ** 807 20m Sennen
Seal Slab VS 4c ** 493 58m • 3 Chair Ladder
Nameless VS 4c *** 1067 58m • 3 Bosigran
Zig Zag VS 4c ** 710 49m • 3 Bosigran
Songs from a Gentle Man VS 4b ** 150 25m Pen Olver
Venusberg VS 4c ** 759 51m • 5 Bosigran
Ding VS 4c ** 873 42m • 2 Bosigran
TRICKIER VS'S
The Royal Forester VS 4c ** 395 27m Zennor Cliff
Little Brown Jug VS 5a *** 2611 66m • 3 Bosigran
Aerial VS 4c ** 277 47m • 3 Chair Ladder
Sam's Indirect Finish to Bending Chimney VS 5a ** 122 18m Trewavas
Africa Route VS 5a ** 1077 18m Sennen
Cress Cendo VS 5a ** 185 32m • 2 St. Loy Cliff
Axis VS 5a ** 451 18m Carn Barra
Anvil Chorus VS 4c *** 1774 54m • 5 Bosigran
South Face Direct VS 4c *** 1293 59m • 4 Chair Ladder
Carrivick VS 5a * 162 14m Trewavas
Super Crack VS 4c * 90 43m • 2 Carn Barra
Hayloft VS 4c * 537 41m • 4 Sennen
Dexter VS 5a ** 535 17m Sennen
Diocese VS 5a *** 917 56m • 4 Chair Ladder
Slippery Slab VS 5a ** 223 27m Sennen
LOW END HVS
Weasle VS 4c ** 70 18m Carn Barra
Ochre Slab Route I HVS 5a ** 852 32m • 2 Bosigran
Shorty's Folly HVS 4c *** 363 14m Roche Rock
Rosebud in June HVS 5a ** 328 27m Zennor Cliff
Mule HVS 5a * 59 15m Pen Olver
MID GRADE HVS
Colomen HVS 4c * 217 21m Trewavas
Williams' Chimney HVS 5b ** 486 20m Trewavas
Saxon HVS 5a *** 881 50m Kenidjack Cliffs
The Lord Falmouth E1 5b ** 783 15m Roche Rock
1 e, 167 stars 75,696 2,720m 163
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