Most Climbed Route in the UK?

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 CaptnSiNich 15 Aug 2023

I'm sure this has been thought of or asked before, but I couldn't find anything about it elsewhere.

I know  Stanage Popular is the most popular crag in Britain so I'm assuming it's something there. Presumably something easy so lot's of people do it like Martello Cracks (M). I suppose you could find the most logged route on UKC but I still I don't think anyone would know the definite answer. Anyone have an opinion?

In reply to CaptnSiNich:

Here's the answer, at least as far as the UKC logbooks are concerned: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/graphs.php#top20climbs

 john arran 15 Aug 2023
In reply to CaptnSiNich:

This comes up occasionally, and I believe the consensus is that it would be one of the first and most accessible routes on Burbage North, maybe 20 Foot Crack (S 4b) or one of its neighbours.

These will get soloed dozens of times a day whenever the weather is remotely suitable, which is most of the time all year round.

OP CaptnSiNich 15 Aug 2023
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Thanks!

OP CaptnSiNich 15 Aug 2023
In reply to john arran:

That's a good point, that's where the UKC logbooks can't help me.

 peppermill 15 Aug 2023
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Thanks for that, I guess the top grit route and top "Other rock type" were fairly predictable but I find it interesting there's plenty of routes above VS in those lists.

 Sean Kelly 15 Aug 2023
In reply to CaptnSiNich:

Flying Buttress, Stanage. I solo it whenever I'm there.

 PaulJepson 15 Aug 2023
In reply to peppermill:

Was surprised by One Step In the Clouds! That's not even on any well-known arbitrary lists, is it?

8
 ianstevens 16 Aug 2023
In reply to PaulJepson:

> Was surprised by One Step In the Clouds! That's not even on any well-known arbitrary lists, is it?

What

2
 PaulJepson 16 Aug 2023
In reply to ianstevens:

Most of the other top routes are something like Classic Rock so get a lot of ascents on tha basis.

I thought one step in the clouds was good but not especially outstanding compared to other quality VS mountain routes. So I'm surprised it features so highly, especially seeing as the other routes around it are mostly on the easier side, and there is a great Classic Rock HS just down the road.

1
 Wimlands 17 Aug 2023
In reply to CaptnSiNich:

Any time I climbed on Southern Sandstone there was always a rope up the Pigs Nose https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/bowles_rocks-54/pigs_nose-1136

at Bowles rocks…so one of the southern sandstone routes might be a contender.

Post edited at 09:10
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In reply to PaulJepson:

I was also really underwhelmed by one step in the clouds. I've only climbed it since the rockfall though so maybe that's made it significantly worse. Like you say considering how close it is to so many excellent routes (Merlin Direct (HVS 5a) Scratch Arete (HVS 5a) Poor Man's Peuterey (S 4a) Christmas Curry (S 4a) etc etc etc) it seems weird that it gets more ascents.

 Ned 17 Aug 2023
In reply to peppermill:

I guess that's because people don't log routes when they're starting out. I imagine some of the easier stuff gets way more unlogged ascents 

 climbingpixie 17 Aug 2023
In reply to peppermill:

> Thanks for that, I guess the top grit route and top "Other rock type" were fairly predictable but I find it interesting there's plenty of routes above VS in those lists.

Are there? I didn't click into all of them but I didn't see anything above VS in the other rock type list and only Tody's/TPS in the grit one.

Post edited at 12:20
In reply to climbingpixie:

There's only two VSs in the Other Rock type list: One Step ITC and Seamstress.

 Tony Buckley 17 Aug 2023
In reply to CaptnSiNich:

I don't think the logs on here will provide any help, myself.

I'd guess it to be a route that's soloed or downclimbed, something so much part of the furniture that people just forget about it and don't record it.  I bet there's routes at  Brownstones and  Pex Hill Quarry, amongst others, that get done many thousands of times a year.

T.

 Cobra_Head 17 Aug 2023
In reply to ianstevens:

> What

What? what.

 bpmclimb 17 Aug 2023
In reply to CaptnSiNich:

It could be a commonly used ascent/descent route which also happens to get described as a climbing route rather than a scramble, because most don't bother to log it. For example:

The Alpine Ridge (M)  which some regulars have probably done hundreds of times.

 peppermill 17 Aug 2023
In reply to climbingpixie:

Ok I guess "Plenty" was overdoing it a bit-TBH I was surprised there was anything at all at VS or above, let alone the odd HVS in there too, even an HVS that's overgraded, like TPS. 

Post edited at 18:25
 Steve Woollard 17 Aug 2023
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Brilliant, lots of interesting stuff here including average trad grade MVS would have thought it would be higher

2
 EarlyBird 17 Aug 2023
In reply to peppermill:

You think TPS is over-graded at HVS? That scuppers the E0 debate then.

 Strife 20 Aug 2023
In reply to EarlyBird:

I genuinely thought TPS felt like a VS. No idea how it could ever be in an E1 debate. And I find most grit routes stiff for the grade!

14
 Clwyd Chris 20 Aug 2023
In reply to CaptnSiNich:

After kayaking past North Stack the week before last I'm surprised Dream isn't on that list, there were 2 parties on it and 1 abseiling down to start, and nobody on anything else

4
 planetmarshall 20 Aug 2023
In reply to Clwyd Chris:

Not remotely surprised. I'd bet there are days when Flying Buttress gets more ascents than Dream sees in a month.

 deepsoup 20 Aug 2023
In reply to planetmarshall:

> Not remotely surprised. I'd bet there are days when Flying Buttress gets more ascents than Dream sees in a month.

To be fair though, Clwyd Chris probably just hasn't noticed that because it's so much more difficult to kayak past Stanage.

 Jackob 20 Aug 2023
In reply to CaptnSiNich:

The answer has to Consenting Adults (7a) however it is also true that most of these are repeat ascents. 

2
 GrahamD 20 Aug 2023
In reply to CaptnSiNich:

I'd always assumed it was something around the outdoor centre at Bowles rocks or similar.  In any case something regularly top roped by groups.

In reply to CaptnSiNich:

Christmas Crack?

Gets done in the day even in the rain!!

 GrahamD 20 Aug 2023
In reply to Strife:

I'm just the opposite.  At one time I could give pretty much most grit HVS a good go but TPS always felt intimidating to me and I never thought it anything but E1 

 loose overhang 30 Aug 2023
In reply to john arran:

And most, or all of the climbs I've put up are never repeated.  Steep friction on slabs at Harrison Hot Springs granite and Grano-Diorite, big holds, on Station D and Mt. Slesse.  C'est la Vie.

Cheers

 el diablo 30 Aug 2023
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

As a climber based in Central Scotland, is there any way of working out most popularly logged routes in Scotland? Intrigued me for a while. Cheers 


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