Restricted Access

Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents

  • Stick to public rights of way - don't take short cuts though fields below the Cove as these are not Open Acces land
  • Always use the public toilet block next to the pub instead of the bushes
  • Follow the bolting agreement - no bolting at weekends, during the school summer holiday or whilst the nesting restriction is in effect to ensure noise doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experience
  • No wild camping near the Cove or nearby fields, or sleeping in vehicles in the village or parking areas - use the campsite at Riverdale or Goredale instead
  • Parking is a very sensitive issue - only park in the locations listed in the parking section below
  • Make use of local business (pubs/cafes/restaurants etc) after a day at the crag and help to put money back into the local economy

By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.

Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

 

Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2023 has been lifted (as of 23rd May) due to nest failure.

 

Peregrine restriction:  Malham is an important and very visible site for nesting peregrines. The restriction when in force applies to all the routes on the Terrace Wall and the Carnage Area of the Right Wing from 1st March-31st July. However, the routes to the right of Scorpio (which starts as for Carnage Left Hand) are unrestricted.

The bolted sport routes on the right side of Upper Central Wall are unaffected except for those that breach the main overhang. On-site notices will also be in place and RSPB volunteers will monitor the birds throughout the nesting period. 

House martins also frequently nest between May-September, often on the popular hard sport routes (frequently affecting Raindogs, Seventh Aardvark, Bat Route and others). Please avoid any routes with nests on or near to avoid damaging the nests, until the young have fledged. It will be obvious which nests are being used due to parents flying in and out. Whilst routes can be climbed once the young have fledged, they can return to the nest site to roost, so be careful not to damage the nests.

12m.

Rockfax Description
A popular route past the protruding lump. If you push on past two extra bolts above the lower-off, then you've managed to do Thriller, 7c+. © Rockfax

FA. Mick Ryan 1986. FA. (Thriller) Pete Gomersall.

Ticklists

York University Students path to greatness , Lime Time , Quarantine Comeback Yorkshire Psyche , The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible

Feedback

User Date Notes
Max_Farland 31 Dec, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Last clip before the anchors was a bit of a reach out right. Had to kick the quickdraw so it swung closer.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Last clip before the anchors was a bit of a reach out right. Had to kick the quickdraw so it swung closer.
SARS 23 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Superb route. Agreed that the bolts aren't very well placed, but the start's easy.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb route. Agreed that the bolts aren't very well placed, but the start's easy.
simonrichardson 22 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The bolts may have been placed to create an independent route from rated PG but the third clip is a bit nasty on-sight! Many a person has clipped their belayers head, not the bolt...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The bolts may have been placed to create an independent route from rated PG but the third clip is a bit nasty on-sight! Many a person has clipped their belayers head, not the bolt...
Andy Farnell 27 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: It's only tricky as a 7a onsight when your as weak and talentless as you Crawshaw ;)
βeta?
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βeta: It's only tricky as a 7a onsight when your as weak and talentless as you Crawshaw ;)
whispering nic 25 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Tricky as a 7a onsight
βeta?
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βeta: Tricky as a 7a onsight
Andy Farnell 1 Mar, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The standard 7a. Very easy when you know how.
βeta?
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βeta: The standard 7a. Very easy when you know how.
Michael Ryan 27 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The bolts were placed so that they couldn't be clipped from Rated PG.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The bolts were placed so that they couldn't be clipped from Rated PG.
Daimon - Rockfax 10 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Steep, Very polished. Probably very good back in the good old days. 7a+ because its polished
βeta?
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βeta: Steep, Very polished. Probably very good back in the good old days. 7a+ because its polished
teddy 23 Apr, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: The definitive 7a...always has been, always will be!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The definitive 7a...always has been, always will be!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 199
Votes cast 147
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Redpoint
Repeated
Dogged
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Jim Grin

Grade: 7a ***
(Troller's Gill)

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