Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

16m.

Rockfax Description
A thugtastic roof-crack. Climb the right-hand thin crack into a cave (thread) then head outwards. A long reach gains the break above the lip where hard pulls are still required. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1954.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List , Cracks And Corners To Greatness , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Top 50 Peak Cracks , Stanage E2 Challenge (1989 Guide) , Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Brown & Whillans Stanage , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Hobo Unicorn Essentials , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Post-lockdown Peak jamming hoedown , Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Big trad grit list , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit Crack School - Part 2 , 1964 Stanage Guide Extremes , Tom's crack funtimes , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Original and best stanage extremes , Misery Mondays

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ariegeois 16 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Marvellous route! When you get the big jug on the lip, slip your right elbow in the horizontal and the rest is easy.
Show beta
βeta: Marvellous route! When you get the big jug on the lip, slip your right elbow in the horizontal and the rest is easy.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 49
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 45
Votes cast 45
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Mordaunt

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Cratcliffe Tor)

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