Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

14m.

Rockfax Description
Chubbin' desperate! The left-hand crack leads to a cramped recess. The exit is difficult - swing into a layback on jams (knees!) before sprinting to safety. Only HVS for grit gurus. © Rockfax

FA. Don Whillans 1952.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Gritstone's finest gruesome and damaging struggles , Hard Grit history , Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide) , Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Top 50 Peak Cracks , Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s , Brown & Whillans Stanage , Stanage Popular , Memorable Climbs , Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Big trad grit list , Eastern Grit Crack School - Part 2 , Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E2 , Tom's crack funtimes , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Hardest E1s on grit , Eastern Grit E1s , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 E1 , Misery Mondays

Feedback

User Date Notes
nickcanute 6 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Beta in description isn't needed and isn't necessarily the best approach anyway.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Beta in description isn't needed and isn't necessarily the best approach anyway.
Fiend 8 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: One might assume that those climbers are PROPER SHITE at jamming then ;)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One might assume that those climbers are PROPER SHITE at jamming then ;)
Paz 30 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Once again BETAFAX to the rescue. How about "Climb the corner crack. That one in front of your face. To the top."
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Once again BETAFAX to the rescue. How about "Climb the corner crack. That one in front of your face. To the top."
Nick Smith - Climbers 19 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Bloody desperate. Must be 5c, surely? Get 2 ok-ish jams in as high as you can, then kneel on the lip of the overhang before converting one to a toe (honest, it does work...) and stand up so that you layback left off the jams. Easy climbing remains!
Show beta
βeta: Bloody desperate. Must be 5c, surely? Get 2 ok-ish jams in as high as you can, then kneel on the lip of the overhang before converting one to a toe (honest, it does work...) and stand up so that you layback left off the jams. Easy climbing remains!

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 79
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 73
Votes cast 65
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
DNF
Dogged
Onsighted
Repeated
Ground Up
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Hugo de Vries

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Turningstone Edge)

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