UKH

14m.

Rockfax Description
Chubbin' desperate! The left-hand crack leads to a cramped recess. The exit is difficult - swing into a layback on jams (knees!) before sprinting to safety. Only HVS for grit gurus. © Rockfax

FA. Don Whillans 1952.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Gritstone's finest gruesome and damaging struggles, Hard Grit history, Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide), Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, Top 50 Peak Cracks, Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s, Brown & Whillans Stanage, Stanage Popular, Memorable Climbs, Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon, Peak District Grit Graded List, Must do, Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs, Big trad grit list, Eastern Grit Crack School - Part 2

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User Date Notes
Fiend 8 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: One might assume that those climbers are PROPER SHITE at jamming then ;)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One might assume that those climbers are PROPER SHITE at jamming then ;)
Paz 30 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Once again BETAFAX to the rescue. How about "Climb the corner crack. That one in front of your face. To the top."
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Once again BETAFAX to the rescue. How about "Climb the corner crack. That one in front of your face. To the top."
Nick Smith - Climbers 19 Jun, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Bloody desperate. Must be 5c, surely? Get 2 ok-ish jams in as high as you can, then kneel on the lip of the overhang before converting one to a toe (honest, it does work...) and stand up so that you layback left off the jams. Easy climbing remains!
 
Show beta
βeta: Bloody desperate. Must be 5c, surely? Get 2 ok-ish jams in as high as you can, then kneel on the lip of the overhang before converting one to a toe (honest, it does work...) and stand up so that you layback left off the jams. Easy climbing remains!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 72
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 66
Votes cast 56
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
DNF
Dogged
Onsighted
Repeated
Ground Up
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Ivory Tower

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Kinder Southern Edges)
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