There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Chubbin' desperate! The left-hand crack leads to a cramped recess. The exit is difficult - swing into a layback on jams (knees!) before sprinting to safety. Only HVS for grit gurus. © Rockfax
FA. Don Whillans 1952.
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Gritstone's finest gruesome and damaging struggles , Hard Grit history , Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide) , Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Top 50 Peak Cracks , Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s , Brown & Whillans Stanage , Stanage Popular , Memorable Climbs , Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Big trad grit list , Eastern Grit Crack School - Part 2 , Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E2 , Tom's crack funtimes , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Hardest E1s on grit , Eastern Grit E1s
User | Date | Notes | ||
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nickcanute | 6 Sep, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Beta in description isn't needed and isn't necessarily the best approach anyway. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Beta in description isn't needed and isn't necessarily the best approach anyway. |
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Fiend | 8 Nov, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: One might assume that those climbers are PROPER SHITE at jamming then ;) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: One might assume that those climbers are PROPER SHITE at jamming then ;) |
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Paz | 30 Sep, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: Once again BETAFAX to the rescue. How about "Climb the corner crack. That one in front of your face. To the top." | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Once again BETAFAX to the rescue. How about "Climb the corner crack. That one in front of your face. To the top." |
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Nick Smith - Climbers | 19 Jun, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: Bloody desperate. Must be 5c, surely? Get 2 ok-ish jams in as high as you can, then kneel on the lip of the overhang before converting one to a toe (honest, it does work...) and stand up so that you layback left off the jams. Easy climbing remains! | ||
Show beta
βeta: Bloody desperate. Must be 5c, surely? Get 2 ok-ish jams in as high as you can, then kneel on the lip of the overhang before converting one to a toe (honest, it does work...) and stand up so that you layback left off the jams. Easy climbing remains! |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(High Tor)