51m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic journey crossing the main face. With the exception of one short sequence, the climbing is no harder than 5b with delightful balance moves between good pockets. Approach via the first pitch of Skylight and a long ramble rightwards along the grubby ledge system.
1) 5c, 27m. From the Castellan Cave, follow the lower break to gain a rest at the Lyme Cryme stance (possible belay - recommended if you want good communication). Climb the cracks above and place some good wires then take a tricky diagonal line up rightwards to gain a flake. Climb this to the Debauchery stance. It is also possible to traverse right higher up the cracks, when level with the Debauchary stance.
2) 5b, 24m. Pick-pocket daintily rightwards to Darius and follow the juggy flakes up and right until another delicate sequence leads to Original Route. Finish up this and abseil off.
Delicatarius, E3 5c. A superb alternative which includes the best climbing of both routes. Finish up Darius after the delicate traverse on pitch 2 of Delicatessen. Take care with your runners which can unzip from the flake. A safer alternative is to belay on the hanging stance on Perseus after the traverse. © Rockfax

FFA. Unknown. FA. (Pitch 1) Chris Jackson, John Atkinson 1965. (Full route) Jack Street, Ed Ward-Drummond (some aid) 1965..

Ticklists

Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDiff to E2 , Peak Rock/10/White Life , Ultimate E2 ticklist , UK Lonely Leads , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Definitive *** Peak Lime , It's "D" Day at High Tor , Best of the rest and the ones that got away , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , Preparation for the Resurrection , The Festival Of Shite , Peak District Limestone Trad , Lime trad for hobbyists , Peak Traverses

Feedback

User Date Notes
Paul Evans 1 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A wonderful route, lovely and (as the name suggests) delicate. On P1 the "lower break" leaves the cave half way up the sidewall. On P2, after crossing Darius, stay low going into Original Route. And that lower bolt on the Original Route stance is looking increasingly manky..
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A wonderful route, lovely and (as the name suggests) delicate. On P1 the "lower break" leaves the cave half way up the sidewall. On P2, after crossing Darius, stay low going into Original Route. And that lower bolt on the Original Route stance is looking increasingly manky..
Alex Mason 18 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: bloody good goute first e2 on limestone and i reckon its definitive e2 although i didnt really feel the 5c move
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: bloody good goute first e2 on limestone and i reckon its definitive e2 although i didnt really feel the 5c move
phatlad 19 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Wonderful route, wonderful position. Getting a bit polished now
βeta?
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βeta: Wonderful route, wonderful position. Getting a bit polished now
Katya 21 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Better than Debauchery, intricate route finding. Much better to finish up Darius.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Better than Debauchery, intricate route finding. Much better to finish up Darius.

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 66
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
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Low 5b
Votes cast 62
Votes cast 64
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Count's Buttress

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Stanage Plantation)

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