Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

20m.

Rockfax Description
A fine climb up the left-hand side of the face. Pull through the roof using a flake-crack then easier climbing leads to a blank section. This is climbed by a hard semi-mantelshelf (large cams) then move left to finish through the bulges with a flourish. © Rockfax

FA. Phil Burke 1978.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide) , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Pete's Peak Treats , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak , Hardest E1s on grit , Eastern Grit E1s , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 E1 , Stanage 3 star E1s

Feedback

User Date Notes
fenclimb 22 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The mantleshelf sorta move is awesome the way I did it, and definatly the 5c move on the climb
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The mantleshelf sorta move is awesome the way I did it, and definatly the 5c move on the climb
tom r 24 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: After the overhang it is quite easy maybe vs apart from the weird mantleshelf which is quite easy when you work out what to do.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: After the overhang it is quite easy maybe vs apart from the weird mantleshelf which is quite easy when you work out what to do.
The Pylon King 23 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: wonderful sustained and varied route.should be 3 stars!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: wonderful sustained and varied route.should be 3 stars!

Logged Ascents

607 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Popular

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 257 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 96
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 94
Votes cast 91
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Traverse

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Wildcat)

Loading Notifications...