Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

24m.

Rockfax Description
A breathtaking pitch of outstanding quality. The technical thin crack leads to a rest below the overhang then traverse up and left until a good horizontal break is reached. Move back right and make a tricky move to gain a good ledge. From here a crucial precarious layaway move leads to the horn and a delicate finish. © Rockfax

FA. Peter Biven 1954.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Stanage *** HVS's , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Stanage 3 Star HVS's - Eastern Grit , World Graded List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Stanage Popular , On Peak Rock , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Stanage 'The Popular End, Orange Spot Heaven'. 12 routes, 36 stars! , Severe Stanage , The Gritlist , 2020/21 Trips , Stanage HVS Challenge - All the 3* , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Big trad grit list , 2021 Ticklist , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , LD's next grit trip(s) , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 3* HVS at Bamford, Stanage, Burbage, Millstone, Froggatt, and Curbar , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , MUMC 2023 Fundraiser Routes , Peak grit , *** HVS on Peak Gritstone , The Eal List

Feedback

User Date Notes
MNA123 24 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Amazing route, gave me a climbgasm. Dint see the high wires for the 2nd crux but just went for it anyway with my last pro dwindling away in the break at the start of the rightwards traverse. After the hard start the rest of the route feels quite eash IMHO!
Show beta
βeta: Amazing route, gave me a climbgasm. Dint see the high wires for the 2nd crux but just went for it anyway with my last pro dwindling away in the break at the start of the rightwards traverse. After the hard start the rest of the route feels quite eash IMHO!
Duz Walker 2 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: once again my Salvation lies in Rockfax user comments - tired at the end of the day my poor jamming sees me succumb to not quite making the first 12 feet and thinking this was not even the crux I skulked away forlornly - now I see the light I am freshly determined.
Show beta
βeta: once again my Salvation lies in Rockfax user comments - tired at the end of the day my poor jamming sees me succumb to not quite making the first 12 feet and thinking this was not even the crux I skulked away forlornly - now I see the light I am freshly determined.
leon 31 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: wicked route. technique will see you right up the crack without getting too tired. loved the traverse back across and mantel up. thought i might have got a bit more gear in after the mantle at this grade, but hay ho
Show beta
βeta: wicked route. technique will see you right up the crack without getting too tired. loved the traverse back across and mantel up. thought i might have got a bit more gear in after the mantle at this grade, but hay ho

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 209
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 195
Votes cast 201
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
John Peel

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Dovedale)

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