Rockfax Description
A direct on Congo Corner with good rests between the hard moves and low in the grade. Climb Congo Corner to where it heads off left. Then go through the bulges, on creaky flakes, to where a swing left allows you to join Congo Corner again just below its upper crux. Finish up this. © Rockfax
FA. Chris Craggs 1974.
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User | Date | Notes | ||
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Jack Benten | 24 May |
Show βeta
βeta: From the initial crack upwards, to a sit no hands rest, create a bomb shelter using nuts. From here, move through the flakes (very positive holds) before arriving at the large horizontal crack (in hindsight a very fat cam is useful here). Continue upwards through a nasty mantelshelf, more positive moves (smaller cams are useful), and an easy finish. Extremely well protected, rests before the hard moves. Feels harder than HVS, so a soft E1 is a well deserving grade. | ||
Show beta
βeta: From the initial crack upwards, to a sit no hands rest, create a bomb shelter using nuts. From here, move through the flakes (very positive holds) before arriving at the large horizontal crack (in hindsight a very fat cam is useful here). Continue upwards through a nasty mantelshelf, more positive moves (smaller cams are useful), and an easy finish. Extremely well protected, rests before the hard moves. Feels harder than HVS, so a soft E1 is a well deserving grade. |
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tomthetraddad | 27 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Great moves on the big flakes, safe as houses getting to the flat break, save big gear for here! | ||
Show beta
βeta: Great moves on the big flakes, safe as houses getting to the flat break, save big gear for here! |
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Matt17 | 29 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Been putting off for too long. Really good but probably hard hvs. All the hardest moves are on Congo corner bits... | ||
Show beta
βeta: Been putting off for too long. Really good but probably hard hvs. All the hardest moves are on Congo corner bits... |
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Pythonist | 7 Jul, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Good route! Sloth + a bit (sort of). Definitely not sustained, but does get exciting at the mantel after the swing left. I got really bored after that... Is there a route that steps right around the bulge? That line looks more obvious, but perhaps harder... | ||
Show beta
βeta: Good route! Sloth + a bit (sort of). Definitely not sustained, but does get exciting at the mantel after the swing left. I got really bored after that... Is there a route that steps right around the bulge? That line looks more obvious, but perhaps harder... |
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pdhu | 6 Apr, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Sustained? You can sit down on the ledge under the roof and psyche up for the moves through the overhangs! But don't leave it too long... | ||
Show beta
βeta: Sustained? You can sit down on the ledge under the roof and psyche up for the moves through the overhangs! But don't leave it too long... |
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Furzy Sleight | 5 Oct, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: The Definative E0? | ||
Show beta
βeta: The Definative E0? |
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Grade: E1 6a ***
(Kinder Northern Edges)