Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
A direct on Congo Corner with good rests between the hard moves and low in the grade. Climb Congo Corner to where it heads off left. Then go through the bulges, on creaky flakes, to where a swing left allows you to join Congo Corner again just below its upper crux. Finish up this. © Rockfax
FA. Chris Craggs 1974.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each , Work Hard, Play Hard , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Caff's Cool E1s List , 2016 Targets , Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Extreme 2018 , Stanage Popular , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Post-Covid19 Eastern Grit Targets. , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Big trad grit list , 2021 Ticklist , LMC Lady Crushers 3* Extravaganza , 100 Best Routes on Grit , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , 28 3 Stars For 28 In The Peak , Cristmas Trad Plan , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , MUMC 2023 Fundraiser Routes , Eastern Grit E1s
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jack Benten | 24 May |
Show βeta
βeta: From the initial crack upwards, to a sit no hands rest, create a bomb shelter using nuts. From here, move through the flakes (very positive holds) before arriving at the large horizontal crack (in hindsight a very fat cam is useful here). Continue upwards through a nasty mantelshelf, more positive moves (smaller cams are useful), and an easy finish. Extremely well protected, rests before the hard moves. Feels harder than HVS, so a soft E1 is a well deserving grade. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: From the initial crack upwards, to a sit no hands rest, create a bomb shelter using nuts. From here, move through the flakes (very positive holds) before arriving at the large horizontal crack (in hindsight a very fat cam is useful here). Continue upwards through a nasty mantelshelf, more positive moves (smaller cams are useful), and an easy finish. Extremely well protected, rests before the hard moves. Feels harder than HVS, so a soft E1 is a well deserving grade. |
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| tomwhite91 | 27 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Great moves on the big flakes, safe as houses getting to the flat break, save big gear for here! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Great moves on the big flakes, safe as houses getting to the flat break, save big gear for here! |
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| Matt17 | 29 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Been putting off for too long. Really good but probably hard hvs. All the hardest moves are on Congo corner bits... | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Been putting off for too long. Really good but probably hard hvs. All the hardest moves are on Congo corner bits... |
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| Pythonist | 7 Jul, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Good route! Sloth + a bit (sort of). Definitely not sustained, but does get exciting at the mantel after the swing left. I got really bored after that... Is there a route that steps right around the bulge? That line looks more obvious, but perhaps harder... | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Good route! Sloth + a bit (sort of). Definitely not sustained, but does get exciting at the mantel after the swing left. I got really bored after that... Is there a route that steps right around the bulge? That line looks more obvious, but perhaps harder... |
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| pdhu | 6 Apr, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Sustained? You can sit down on the ledge under the roof and psyche up for the moves through the overhangs! But don't leave it too long... | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Sustained? You can sit down on the ledge under the roof and psyche up for the moves through the overhangs! But don't leave it too long... |
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| Furzy Sleight | 5 Oct, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: The Definative E0? | ||
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Show beta
βeta: The Definative E0? |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Popular
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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Moyer's Buttress
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Gardom's Edge)