Restricted Access

The BMC Access Fund and Patagonia equipment funded footpath stabilisation work at the crag in early 2000.

16 October 2020 - The parking for Shepherds Crag at Lodore Farm is closed. Please look to park elsewhere: Kettlewell or Bowderstone car parks , bus from Keswick or cycle. We need to respectful of the owner’s decision. The Lakes area access reps are hoping to meet with the owner soon.

03 January 2023 - Rockfall reported "I was walking below shepherds crag on Jan 1st, and found what appears to be a very recent rockfall.

I don't know the crag, so can't tell you what route it was near, but walking from the south of the crag it was just before the path starts to drop steeply near the north end.

It was dusk, so I couldn't see where the rock had fallen from (low down, or higher up), but it seemed to have a smashed tree associated with the debris.  Main block was probably 2m x 1.5m x 1.5m approx.  No idea if routes are affected at all, but I suspect that the area needs to be inspected by someone competent in the area of safety/stability of rock.

Update to follow once area has been investigated. 

Rockfax Description
Outrageous climbing and positions mark out this route as one of the stand-out experiences in Borrowdale.
1) 4c, 25m. Pitch 1 of Scorpion or Little Chamonix.
2) 5b, 26m. Climb the groove just left of Little Chamonix and, at an overhang, step left and up a short corner. Move up steeply to below a huge leaning pinnacle and climb the right-hand side to its top (large sling). Finish up the crack in the headwall directly above. Exposed. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Incorrect description of the first pitch of Bludgeon. Scorpion has nothing to do with The Bludgeon. This 4c pitch described is the original first pitch of The Bludgeon. FA 1958. Scorpions' first pitch went up inferior rock 15 feet to the right of Little Chamonix FA 1952.

Ticklists

Shepherd's Crag - top 25 , Ultimate E1 ticklist , FRCC Lake District Cover Climbs , Borrowdale FRCC Guide 'Top Fives' , A Lakeland E1 Odessey , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , Lakes , 3* Extreme Northern Trad , Lakeland E1 Classics , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , UK Trad , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Lake District Ultimate Ticklist , Cumbria for the Recreational User , Lakes Trad

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jacktheclimber 27 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Absolutely terrifying but amazing all at the same time
βeta?
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βeta: Absolutely terrifying but amazing all at the same time
JSudd 30 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The UKC route description for the start of P2 seems much more trafficked than the FRCC Borrowdale guide.
βeta?
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βeta: The UKC route description for the start of P2 seems much more trafficked than the FRCC Borrowdale guide.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Shepherd’s Crag

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 129
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 123
Votes cast 114
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Grand Slam

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Esk Buttress (Dow Crag))

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