Restricted Access

The BMC Access Fund and Patagonia equipment funded footpath stabilisation work at the crag in early 2000.

16 October 2020 - The parking for Shepherds Crag at Lodore Farm is closed. Please look to park elsewhere: Kettlewell or Bowderstone car parks , bus from Keswick or cycle. We need to respectful of the owner’s decision. The Lakes area access reps are hoping to meet with the owner soon.

03 January 2023 - Rockfall reported "I was walking below shepherds crag on Jan 1st, and found what appears to be a very recent rockfall.

I don't know the crag, so can't tell you what route it was near, but walking from the south of the crag it was just before the path starts to drop steeply near the north end.

It was dusk, so I couldn't see where the rock had fallen from (low down, or higher up), but it seemed to have a smashed tree associated with the debris.  Main block was probably 2m x 1.5m x 1.5m approx.  No idea if routes are affected at all, but I suspect that the area needs to be inspected by someone competent in the area of safety/stability of rock.

Update to follow once area has been investigated. 

18m.

Rockfax Description
A long expedition with a very bold section on the first pitch. Start at the chimney on the right-hand side of the large pinnacle.
1) 4b, 32m. Ascend the chimney to a chockstone. From the chockstone, climb the tricky and bold wall to a ledge. Move up the short corner to a dead tree stump and then move left over blocks to the terrace. Scramble up past trees to a belay below a large triangular perched boulder.
2) 4a, 30m. Climb leftwards past an oblong protruding block to meet the long easy-angled ridge that leads to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
south of Chamonix (not Little Chamonix)you will see a Chimney with a hanging chockstone. Climb the short obvious chimney of 20ft, easy enough to a stance and probably for the best, a belay. The next part of the first pitch/second pitch really, is extremely polished and you can not get gear in. You just have to go for it. As you ascend the ridge from the tree area which connects to several climbs including the middle of Little Chamonix, the climbing is of a good MS standard. Originally this whole climb was a VD - which was nuts. But climbers must have their wits about them not to miss the point of the whole climb: the last pitch, hence 'Crescendo'. As you reach the top near the Belvedere, you must descend slightly to do the final short pitch which traverses and ascends a shallow scoop on the face and leads you up to middle of the Belvedere proper. The rock is very grippy with not a hint of polish (it is well-skipped). This is what makes the climb a HS, if it is ommitted then the climb is a MS, but just think, back in the 60s before all this good gear we have, those boys regarded this as a VD! While the tiny traverse is very technical, the rock is very good, although it is very hard to protect. Micros are of immense use when you get to the ledge as there are a couple of small cracks - a #1 wire will fit, but will not look like it will hold, thus use a micro. Excellent climb.

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 95
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 89
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Vlad the Inhaler

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Black Crag (Wrynose))

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