Rockfax Description
Sensational positions and complex route finding combine to deliver a memorable climb. Start as for Great Eastern Route.
1) 4b, 20m. Climb up to a slabby ramp then move up right to a corner. Follow this to a ledge, then take the cracks above to another ledge and belay.
2) 5a, 15m. Climb the corner above for 3m before moving left to an easing on the edge. Move up for 5m and head back right across the wide corner/groove to a stance and belay.
3) 5a, 18m. Move right to below a slim right-facing corner and climb it for 5m until it is possible to traverse back left to regain the wide corner. Continue up the corner to a slab and move right up a step (as for Great Eastern Route) to another ramp and belay.
4) 4c, 14m. Move slightly right and gain a narrow ramp in the steep wall above. Follow the ramp left and then head up to a stance on a slab below a corner.
5) 4c, 30m. Move up left to a pinnacle then back right to a block below a corner-crack. Climb the layback crack to the top. © Rockfax
Ticklists
MIA logbook must haves! , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , UK Holiday Plans , Lakes HVS , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , Les Brown Lake District routes , A Lakeland Apprenticeship , 60 At 60
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| LakesWinter | 6 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: I lost a green WC cam on P4 when my second couldn't remove it. If you get it out keep it but it would be great if you would also give Wasdale MRT a decent sized donation. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I lost a green WC cam on P4 when my second couldn't remove it. If you get it out keep it but it would be great if you would also give Wasdale MRT a decent sized donation. |
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| LakesWinter | 5 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: Yeah what Pagan says about the p2 line is correct. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Yeah what Pagan says about the p2 line is correct. |
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| Pagan | 19 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: The description for pitch 2 is a bit misleading - you move up from the belay and work up and left to the arete almost straight away, you don't go anywhere near the main corner until you cross it higher up the pitch. The photo in the FRCC guide is useful and the topo line is correct (despite comments to the contrary below). It's a great route on clean, sound rock (the odd hollow flake but no worse than many mountain crags and a lot better than most) so go and get it done! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The description for pitch 2 is a bit misleading - you move up from the belay and work up and left to the arete almost straight away, you don't go anywhere near the main corner until you cross it higher up the pitch. The photo in the FRCC guide is useful and the topo line is correct (despite comments to the contrary below). It's a great route on clean, sound rock (the odd hollow flake but no worse than many mountain crags and a lot better than most) so go and get it done! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Scafell East Buttress
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Finale
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Shepherd’s Crag)