Rockfax Description
A route of immense historical significance that weaves its way up the crag, taking in plenty of good climbing in increasingly spectacular situations. Start at a rib, just left of the base of Moss Gill, where Rake's Progress crosses it.
1) 5a, 40m. Climb the rib and corner to below a roof. Traverse left under the roof to a short corner. Climb the corner then head left to a large grassy ledge below The Great Flake - 'The Oval'.
2) 5b, 25m. Gain the base of The Great Flake and move up it for 5m to a sloping ledge on the left. Traverse left along a thin crack for 2m before stepping up to a good hold. Continue up to gain a short crack that leads to the top of The Great Flake. Go left along the flake to reach a good ledge and belay on 'Jeffcoat's Ledge'.
2a) 5b, 25m. The original line tackled The Great Flake in its entirety. It lacks gear making this option now worth E2 although a very large cam brings it back down to E1.
3) 4c, 30m. Move left along the ledge and up a corner to a block (possible belay). Traverse right to a big pinnacle then on to a corner. Climb this to a ledge and belay on the right - 'The V-ledge'.
4) 5a, 35m. Starting at the left end of the ledge, climb a thin crack and move left until the large corner above can be reached. Climb the steep corner and at its top, head left to easier ground. © Rockfax
S.W.Herford, G.S.Sansom et al Apr/1914.
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User | Date | Notes | ||
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jackmorford | 9 Aug |
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βeta: We ended up opting for Marr\'s variation on the great flake pitch and finishing up the Nazgul which was awesome. It had rained the night before quite heavily (and in fact the whole previous month - thanks summer 2023) and there was a lot of wet rock around (especially on P1 and a patch on P3) but nothing absolutely crucial, it certainly gave it some additional spice however. | βeta? | |
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βeta: We ended up opting for Marr's variation on the great flake pitch and finishing up the Nazgul which was awesome. It had rained the night before quite heavily (and in fact the whole previous month - thanks summer 2023) and there was a lot of wet rock around (especially on P1 and a patch on P3) but nothing absolutely crucial, it certainly gave it some additional spice however. |
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ed edwards | 30 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Sold as a classic, probably not worth fagging the gear all the way up there. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Sold as a classic, probably not worth fagging the gear all the way up there. |
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joeramsay | 19 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: A big purple cam is tipped out (or falling out) at the crux of the great flake - take a big green if you want to be maximally safe | ||
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βeta: A big purple cam is tipped out (or falling out) at the crux of the great flake - take a big green if you want to be maximally safe |
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mattjoynson | 21 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: #6 Dragon cam (Silver) is not large enough to protect the flake. I think it might need a #8. | ||
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βeta: #6 Dragon cam (Silver) is not large enough to protect the flake. I think it might need a #8. |
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Frank Boase | 14 Nov, 2019 |
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βeta: I am told that the chock stone fell out!! Ummm, I'd love to read what happened and how it affects the pitch. | ||
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βeta: I am told that the chock stone fell out!! Ummm, I'd love to read what happened and how it affects the pitch. |
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Grade: E1 5c ***
(Pavey Ark)