Rockfax Description
A route of immense historical significance that weaves its way up the crag, taking in plenty of good climbing in increasingly spectacular situations. Start at a rib, just left of the base of Moss Gill, where Rake's Progress crosses it.
1) 5a, 40m. Climb the rib and corner to below a roof. Traverse left under the roof to a short corner. Climb the corner then head left to a large grassy ledge below The Great Flake - 'The Oval'.
2) 5b, 25m. Gain the base of The Great Flake and move up it for 5m to a sloping ledge on the left. Traverse left along a thin crack for 2m before stepping up to a good hold. Continue up to gain a short crack that leads to the top of The Great Flake. Go left along the flake to reach a good ledge and belay on 'Jeffcoat's Ledge'.
2a) 5b, 25m. The original line tackled The Great Flake in its entirety. It lacks gear making this option now worth E2 although a very large cam brings it back down to E1.
3) 4c, 30m. Move left along the ledge and up a corner to a block (possible belay). Traverse right to a big pinnacle then on to a corner. Climb this to a ledge and belay on the right - 'The V-ledge'.
4) 5a, 35m. Starting at the left end of the ledge, climb a thin crack and move left until the large corner above can be reached. Climb the steep corner and at its top, head left to easier ground. © Rockfax
S.W.Herford, G.S.Sansom et al Apr/1914.
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User | Date | Notes | ||
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ed edwards | 30 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Sold as a classic, probably not worth fagging the gear all the way up there. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Sold as a classic, probably not worth fagging the gear all the way up there. |
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joeramsay | 19 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: A big purple cam is tipped out (or falling out) at the crux of the great flake - take a big green if you want to be maximally safe | ||
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βeta: A big purple cam is tipped out (or falling out) at the crux of the great flake - take a big green if you want to be maximally safe |
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mattjoynson | 21 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: #6 Dragon cam (Silver) is not large enough to protect the flake. I think it might need a #8. | ||
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βeta: #6 Dragon cam (Silver) is not large enough to protect the flake. I think it might need a #8. |
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Frank Boase | 14 Nov, 2019 |
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βeta: I am told that the chock stone fell out!! Ummm, I'd love to read what happened and how it affects the pitch. | ||
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βeta: I am told that the chock stone fell out!! Ummm, I'd love to read what happened and how it affects the pitch. |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Bowfell)