Sustained and technical climbing up a fine section of Pavey Ark. The first pitch is run out and the grade has varied from HVS to E2 over the years (consensus now seems to be about E1).1) 5b, 35m. Climb the lower slab to a holly bush. Move up the steep rib on the left to a flake, then right to a foothold (peg). Some thin moves up slabby rock reach easier ground that leads leftwards to a ledge and tree belay.2) 5a, 36m. Move right and climb an overlap and corner to a ledge below a right-curving slim overhang. Move rightwards just below this, past a thin section of slab, until a move down reaches a ledge and belay.3) 4c, 15m. Ascend the arete on the right to finish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Fine climbing, mostly HVS with one short, hard section on the first pitch.
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Grade: E1 5b ***
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