UKH

Rockfax Description
Top ten in the list of the Lake District's most famous climbs, this route culminates in a magnificently-positioned traverse rightwards across the headwall of the Northwest Face.
1) 10m. Make an easy traverse leftwards to a stance and belay just below the long band of overhangs.
2) 4c, 11m. Move up to the overhang. Traverse left below it to where it ends at a left-facing corner. Climb the corner to a stance shared with Gimmer String - p.109.
3) 5a, 30m. Climb the steep corner then step out right onto the edge of the exposed face. Move up a short way to an old peg, then pull up to a horizontal weakness and make a steep traverse right to below a corner. Gain the corner and finish up it. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Hard Rock, The Complete Dolphin Collection, Very good routes in the UK, MIA logbook must haves!, World Graded List, Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain, UK Lonely Leads, Ultimate HVS ticklist, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Top Five HVSs In The UK?, Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS, 2016 Targets, Langdale 3 Star HVS Round - Climb them all in a single day, Lakeland's Greatest Pioneers, High Quality Adventure routes, Arc'teryx Lakeland Revival 2017, Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad, Arc'teryx Lakeland Revival 2017, Arc'teryx Lakeland Revival 2017, Adventure ticklist 2018, Magical mysterious and unusual beasts of rock & myth, UK Holiday Plans, Pre-MIA Wishlist, The best the lakes has to offer for mere mortals (because it's not always as wet as kez thinks), Libby Peter's HVS Hit List, Nuts of Legends, Lakes HVS, Hard Rock 2020, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District, ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50, Hard Rock 2020, Lakes Classic and Hard Rock Selection, A Lakeland Apprenticeship, Lizzie's 2022 top 10, Turbo-Punter's Tradification

Feedback

User Date Notes
ChristineR 13 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Found the belay point for the crux pitch pretty scary as the leader nearly grabbed a lose head sized rock on top of the left hand block. He considered throwing it off but too many people around. Proceed with caution. Rest of the blocks above look and sound very lose but have probably been there forever and will be there for many more centuries to come
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Found the belay point for the crux pitch pretty scary as the leader nearly grabbed a lose head sized rock on top of the left hand block. He considered throwing it off but too many people around. Proceed with caution. Rest of the blocks above look and sound very lose but have probably been there forever and will be there for many more centuries to come
Rory Shaw 22 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Done many easier E1s including Capella on Pavey Arc 2 days before. Pitch 3 meaty, sustained, serious (jenga blocks above belay), very exposed... magnificent.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Done many easier E1s including Capella on Pavey Arc 2 days before. Pitch 3 meaty, sustained, serious (jenga blocks above belay), very exposed... magnificent.
ipfreely 17 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Led P1 & 2 as one pitch, the first part is a scrample, the roofs / under clings are great, nice foot ledge the whole way with a nice bit of exposuse, NB diffinatly put both ropes through the bit of gear in the vertical crack at the end of traverse & don't extend.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Led P1 & 2 as one pitch, the first part is a scrample, the roofs / under clings are great, nice foot ledge the whole way with a nice bit of exposuse, NB diffinatly put both ropes through the bit of gear in the vertical crack at the end of traverse & don't extend.
Jon Tweedlie 24 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Loose block near start of pitch 2 in corner system, probably been there forever just don’t kill your belayer.
Show beta
βeta: Loose block near start of pitch 2 in corner system, probably been there forever just don’t kill your belayer.

Logged Ascents

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 154
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 156
Votes cast 140
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
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Route of Interest

High Crag Buttress

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(High Crag)
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