UKH

110m, 5 pitches. It is listed in Classic rock
The granite has extremely good friction and you can smear anywhere. the first pitch follows Fourth route until you reach an open chimney on the right (50 meter pitch). Go up the open chimney (gently traveling as you go) to a corner the down climb on a couple of hidden footholds. follow the crack line up under the large overhang to a goo peg belay (50 meter pitch). Traverse under the overhang and around the corner to the triple chimney (this is where congestion can happen as just below this point there is a belay that is for several other routes) climb up the triple chimney pulling over an awkward block and belay (25 meters). follow the obvious faulting upto a block belay (25 meters). Scramble up the blocky steps to the grass ramp. I would recommend that you carry alternate footwear as I wouldn't recommend wearing rock boots for the decent.

G H Townsend, G C Curtis, M J H Hawkins, H Hore 03/Sep/1944.

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User Date Notes
clownboy 6 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Can be done as 3 pitches with a 50m. Belay half way up the slab. Then at the bottom of the chimney.
 
Show beta
βeta: Can be done as 3 pitches with a 50m. Belay half way up the slab. Then at the bottom of the chimney.
PaulJepson 30 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Not 100% sure where the descent off this is if you don't carry on up south ridge. We went round the grassy terrace moving together (any grass slip and you're dead otherwise) and found a block with some tat on. That JUST got up back to the gully on a pair of 50s. Nothing looked down-climbable. Take some cord, as the slings we used looked tired.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not 100% sure where the descent off this is if you don't carry on up south ridge. We went round the grassy terrace moving together (any grass slip and you're dead otherwise) and found a block with some tat on. That JUST got up back to the gully on a pair of 50s. Nothing looked down-climbable. Take some cord, as the slings we used looked tired.

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