The classic of this buttress does not disappoint. The climbing is well-protected and can be climbed at highish tides during calm seas by making a straightforward abseil approach down East Gully and belaying on high ledges at the start of the first pitch.1) 4a, 13m. Move up easily to the base of a wide crack. Take the crack that leads up left to a large belay ledge.2) 4a, 12m. Move up to the V-chimney behind the stance and climb it before making a move right and up to a guano stained belay ledge.3) 4a, 10m. Move right to a steep crack and climb to a belay ledge.4) 4b, 12m. The wide crack/chimney above leads to a niche from which harder climbing accesses a ledge and belay.5) 4a, 12m. Continue up short corners, past ledges, to the top of the cliff. © Rockfax
Classic Rock, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, South West VDiff-HVS, CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Original 'Classic Rock' List, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), I want a Pasty!
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