Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
A great classic, mild at the grade but thrilling. Start as for Billiard Buttress to the deep break then move right for 3m. Step up and right to the blunt arete, balance up to reach a large shallow pocket and use this to gain a scoop and easier rock trending left. Originally led with a single chockstone runner in the big break. The direct start is Back in the Y.M.C.A., f7B+. © Rockfax
FA. Len Millsom 1962.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide) , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Caff's Cool E1s List , Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Stanage Plantation , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Post-Covid19 Eastern Grit Targets. , 1964 Stanage Guide Extremes , 100 Best Routes on Grit , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , MUMC 2023 Fundraiser Routes , Eastern Grit E1s , Original and best stanage extremes , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 E1 , Stanage 3 star E1s
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| C Witter | 21 Apr |
Show βeta
βeta: Steep start, then enjoyable, delicate... enough good gear, if you have the right sizes (or shonky gear if, like me, you only had the wrong sizes...). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Steep start, then enjoyable, delicate... enough good gear, if you have the right sizes (or shonky gear if, like me, you only had the wrong sizes...). |
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| Christheclimber | 19 Dec, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: This was my first extreme lead in 1978 - before friends, the only protection then was a large hex in the first break. Felt run out on the one piece of gear! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: This was my first extreme lead in 1978 - before friends, the only protection then was a large hex in the first break. Felt run out on the one piece of gear! |
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| Si dH | 12 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: I found the crux on lead to be the start which felt very bold while mantling. The move up the arete felt tricker but very safe with good friernds by your feet. Any protection above this is unnecessary - the climbing is much easier. Didnt even notice the discussed flake unless you mean the one right on the arete by the friends - which I didnt use at all. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: I found the crux on lead to be the start which felt very bold while mantling. The move up the arete felt tricker but very safe with good friernds by your feet. Any protection above this is unnecessary - the climbing is much easier. Didnt even notice the discussed flake unless you mean the one right on the arete by the friends - which I didnt use at all. |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 16 Apr, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: Fabulous climbing on good holds, but little or no gear towards the top. Never sustained, although getting off the ground is particularly hard if you are short (apparently). Low in the grade. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Fabulous climbing on good holds, but little or no gear towards the top. Never sustained, although getting off the ground is particularly hard if you are short (apparently). Low in the grade. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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Flying Buttress Direct
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)