Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

20m.

Rockfax Description
A bold line up the left edge of the buttress. Climb the leaning wall and head right to a flange. Mantelshelf to reach the break then move left and head up the delicate arete and slab above. © Rockfax

FA. Al Parker 1959.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Plantation , Severe Stanage , The Gritlist , Stanage HVS Challenge , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Stanage - all the routes on Stanage in the 1964 Sheffield-Stanage area guidebook

Feedback

User Date Notes
Fraser kid 2 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The hardest and boldest bit on MM is the start, which is shared with this. There’s nothing else on MM that is bold or hard IMO, so either MM is soft or this should be E1 if MM is accurate grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The hardest and boldest bit on MM is the start, which is shared with this. There’s nothing else on MM that is bold or hard IMO, so either MM is soft or this should be E1 if MM is accurate grade.
Si dH 13 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I reckon the crux is definitely the mantel to the break, hardish 5a and above a deck-out so a bit necky for HVS. I actually found this to be the lead-crux of MM too, and its harder tha nthe start of pot black too which is only about 4c but more intimidating and goes on longer. Theres one smeary 4c/5a move up the arete then a romp.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I reckon the crux is definitely the mantel to the break, hardish 5a and above a deck-out so a bit necky for HVS. I actually found this to be the lead-crux of MM too, and its harder tha nthe start of pot black too which is only about 4c but more intimidating and goes on longer. Theres one smeary 4c/5a move up the arete then a romp.
shaun walby 10 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: If you short you might have to jump and grab/slap for the first holds before moving up to get exstablished on the first break, probably 5a technical crux. Then its an easy traverse and a bottle job on the loverly arete (no gear good feet and a cool head useful).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If you short you might have to jump and grab/slap for the first holds before moving up to get exstablished on the first break, probably 5a technical crux. Then its an easy traverse and a bottle job on the loverly arete (no gear good feet and a cool head useful).
Albie 9 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Bit off more than i could chew on this one. I'm not used to so much exposure and tried to bail out a couple of times. But perseverence, lack of any gear to hang on and a baying crowd got me to the top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bit off more than i could chew on this one. I'm not used to so much exposure and tried to bail out a couple of times. But perseverence, lack of any gear to hang on and a baying crowd got me to the top.
Chris the Tall 27 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Very sensible to show this starting on the right (as for Millsoms) rather than the left (as for Pot Black). This way it's 5a rather than 5b, and more in keeping with the rest of the route, though possibly not as good
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very sensible to show this starting on the right (as for Millsoms) rather than the left (as for Pot Black). This way it's 5a rather than 5b, and more in keeping with the rest of the route, though possibly not as good

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 127
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 124
Votes cast 118
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Valkyrie

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Froggatt Edge)

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