UKH

20m.

Rockfax Description
A bold line up the left edge of the buttress. Climb the leaning wall 3m right of the arete and head right to a flange. Mantelshelf to reach the deep horizontal break then move left and head up the delicate arete and the pleasant slab above. © Rockfax

FA. Al Parker 1959.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Stanage Plantation, Severe Stanage, The Gritlist, Stanage HVS Challenge, Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS

Feedback

User Date Notes
Si dH 13 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I reckon the crux is definitely the mantel to the break, hardish 5a and above a deck-out so a bit necky for HVS. I actually found this to be the lead-crux of MM too, and its harder tha nthe start of pot black too which is only about 4c but more intimidating and goes on longer. Theres one smeary 4c/5a move up the arete then a romp.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I reckon the crux is definitely the mantel to the break, hardish 5a and above a deck-out so a bit necky for HVS. I actually found this to be the lead-crux of MM too, and its harder tha nthe start of pot black too which is only about 4c but more intimidating and goes on longer. Theres one smeary 4c/5a move up the arete then a romp.
shaun walby 10 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: If you short you might have to jump and grab/slap for the first holds before moving up to get exstablished on the first break, probably 5a technical crux. Then its an easy traverse and a bottle job on the loverly arete (no gear good feet and a cool head useful).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If you short you might have to jump and grab/slap for the first holds before moving up to get exstablished on the first break, probably 5a technical crux. Then its an easy traverse and a bottle job on the loverly arete (no gear good feet and a cool head useful).
Albie 9 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Bit off more than i could chew on this one. I'm not used to so much exposure and tried to bail out a couple of times. But perseverence, lack of any gear to hang on and a baying crowd got me to the top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bit off more than i could chew on this one. I'm not used to so much exposure and tried to bail out a couple of times. But perseverence, lack of any gear to hang on and a baying crowd got me to the top.
Chris the Tall 27 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Very sensible to show this starting on the right (as for Millsoms) rather than the left (as for Pot Black). This way it's 5a rather than 5b, and more in keeping with the rest of the route, though possibly not as good
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very sensible to show this starting on the right (as for Millsoms) rather than the left (as for Pot Black). This way it's 5a rather than 5b, and more in keeping with the rest of the route, though possibly not as good

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 124
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 121
Votes cast 115
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Surgeon's Saunter

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Stanage North)
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