UKH

Skye and Cuillin conditions 12 November

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 Mike Lates 12 Nov 2019

Quick heads up that we have had a superb dump of wet snow onto a cold base over the past 48hrs and big freeze forecast for the week ahead. 

There will be many good mixed options to go for above 500m including some of the Storr gullies. Scamadal will take another week+ to complete some of the ice lines but worth keeping an eye on.

Haven't made it to the Ridge but the optimists could start salivating; I'll update when I get out or hear news. 

Looking for partners myself if anyone is keen...

mike@skyeguides.co.uk 

Cuillin Ridge Traverse (Winter) (IV) Cuillin Ridge (Traverse) 

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 Mike Lates 14 Nov 2019
In reply to Mike Lates:

Superb conditions underfoot yesterday with crampons required above 500m. Neve not quite solid enough to pull on steep moves but a mix of dry rock edges and steel hard ice smears made for a classic day on Pinnacle Ridge. Gear was scant but I did get a good solid snow bollard not far from the summit!

In terms of Traverse the cover was thinner than I expected but crest complete with good crust already, only going through one in 10 steps on descent off Gillean on the side that had been in the sun all day. Similar quantities on most aspects and looked similar right to the southern end.

Pics up when moderators pass them.

Fresh powder falling today should help

In reply to Mike Lates:

I wonder why people come on to this website if they don't like mountaineering and rock climbing? Mike Lates has just told us that one of the greatest mountaineering expeditions in Britain, the Cuillin Ridge in winter, is coming into condition and he gets 17 likes and 2 dislikes. Just plain weird.

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 Mike Lates 14 Nov 2019
 Mike Lates 14 Nov 2019
In reply to Mike Lates:

A beautiful shot, Mike. Looks as if you may have been pushed for time getting back before dark??

 Mike Lates 14 Nov 2019
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Yeh but the harvest moon was magnifico followed by her sitting above Glamaig with a thin veil of mist circling the mountain. Didnt have the camera for capturing that!

 Sophie G. 14 Nov 2019
In reply to Mike Lates:

Great pics, Mike! I got out for the first time this winter today, with Simon. We climbed two short easy lines in an undisclosed location Details on Facebook.

Drop me a line if you need a partner. sophie-grace.chappell@open.ac.uk

Post edited at 21:21
 girlymonkey 14 Nov 2019
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Quite a few of us have phantom dislikers who will dislike absolutely anything. I once posted that I was going out for a ride on my new bike in the sun and I got a dislike for it!

9
 Sophie G. 14 Nov 2019
In reply to girlymonkey:

Sorry. I couldn't resist  

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In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Dislikes, the thing is that nobody has any right to set foot upon this ground, and having it publicised, I  suspected is what gives rise to the dislike.  It’s of coarse a selfless person that thinks like that. It is we know nice to have it to behold alone, to be first to go through virgin ground, maybe the hills became too popular and that now we can not find  solitude as easily  as we once did.

I am, pleased to see this information again this season, (thanks) even if it frustrates me as life and work squat on my days 

1
 BruceM 15 Nov 2019
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Thumbs Up and Down are completely undefined and therefore useless entities that could mean completely the opposite things to different people.  Facebook consumerism consuming the world, and encouraging everybody to criticize everything without any need for justification, and causing endless mental health issues in their wake.

But I'm sure the world is a better place now...

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 Mike Lates 15 Nov 2019
In reply to Mike Lates:

Friday update- 

Sadly the crust from Wednesday seems to have gone off so slow going on Tourist Route in deep drifts at times. Possibly the sun, possibly the fresh yesterday insulated or who knows. 

Forecast is still cold and good for the week ahead so will post as more reports come in.

 Mike Lates 18 Nov 2019
In reply to Mike Lates:

So the situation seems to be a split between a swamped north end with fresh down below 500m and deep. Massively reduced amounts south of An Caisteal and a pic today showing Coire Lagan with neve and water ice that must have been there since Wednesday. 

Climb central to south end for routes, possibly some corkers.

Trailblazing through the north end may reward those after a Traverse still I reckon. Definitely not perfect but equally certainly winter and a good forecast....

Enjoy

PS Southern aspects of Bla Bheinn thin but Escpe from Colditz almost certainly in from size of Sailaway falls. Suspect the remote long routes on north side overlooking glen slig will be very rewarding. 

Post edited at 00:26
 Mike Lates 18 Nov 2019
In reply to Mike Lates:

Storr has had more snow than further south so good for something soon....

 loz01 20 Nov 2019
In reply to Mike Lates:

> Superb conditions underfoot yesterday with crampons required above 500m. Neve not quite solid enough to pull on steep moves but a mix of dry rock edges and steel hard ice smears made for a classic day on Pinnacle Ridge. Gear was scant but I did get a good solid snow bollard not far from the summit!

> In terms of Traverse the cover was thinner than I expected but crest complete with good crust already, only going through one in 10 steps on descent off Gillean on the side that had been in the sun all day. Similar quantities on most aspects and looked similar right to the southern end.

> Pics up when moderators pass them.

> Fresh powder falling today should help


We were surprised to have Pinnacle Ridge to ourselves on Sat. Thanks for posting Mike!


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