In reply to Will Hempstead:
I haven't used Totems in winter, but ages ago when I was more proficient at mixed climbing, I took one of only 2 winter leader falls from Crest Route in winter onto a 0.75 Camalot. I fell about 3 feet, dusted myself off and led the rest of the pitch, using a mental hammered axe move.
The other leader fall also left me uninjured, but was terrifying by comparison. I rushed the top move on Temptress (Lochnagar; felt more like IV than III that day) and took a 15 foot flyer and landed in a snowdrift. This put me off mixed climbing very effectively, although I do appreciate that many Lochnagar mixed routes are far less well protected and "friendly" than those in the Norries or the 'Coe.
In my bumbly old age, I have a very strong preference for ice and low-grade mountaineering routes and I never take cams in winter. Firstly, I'm worried about trashing them and secondly I prefer to take 4 pegs, 2 warthogs and a bulldog to maximise my gear choice. That said, I