In reply to random gary:
Thank you for your concern about my ignorance. It is misplaced.
All summiteers of an 8000 metre peak, with or without oxygen, have accomplished something that is both difficult and rewarding; however, only those climbers who summit without oxygen are the truly accomplished mountaineers.
Norton reached 8600 metres on Everest without oxygen as early as 1922. Messner (one of the five referred to above) argued forcefully against using supplementary oxygen, saying it results in downgrading Everest to a 20,000-foot mountain. In effect, it lowers the physiological height of a peak.
The headlines should read: "Hinkes climbs all 14 8000 metre peaks with oxygen" to avoid any confusion (c/f "new E10 top-roped to death then led with three mats, ab rope in situ and a team of spotters" rather than "new E10 climbed"). Just my opinion. But not just my opinion.