Although the great Summer of Trad continues, I’m looking towards the colder months, and have decided I’d like to try and climb my first sport 7a+ by the end of the year.
The problem with this is that 1) I live in London, but 2) will need to project a route of this grade for success to be viable. Hence I need to pick a climb somewhere there is a reasonable probability of returning to semi regularly.
As my club has a hut in Snowdonia, the most obvious option is thus somewhere in the Llangollen area, on the Clwyd Limestone, as a way of breaking up drives to and from Snowdonia.
Llanymynech Quarry would seem a strong contender, and I enjoyed a few routes there earlier this summer (inc. a pleasingly soft 7a on the Grid Iron Wall). Does anybody with experience here have suggestions for a route to target? Obviously I want low hanging fruit, so something low in the grade please. More generally, i’m crap on really steep stuff but love me a good technical face/mildly overhanging climb on crimps.
Obvious contenders:
but perhaps others know better?
Night Glue (7a+) surely. Might be a bit out of your way though.
On the Clwyd theme... Dinbren can be very hot in the summer, but is still a good option in the evening or on cooler days, and the route Do Walls Have Ears would suit your requirements. Ok, so Dinbren is a bit short but the climbing on the Climb High wall is excellent and Do Walls Have Ears is crimpy wall climbing, and good fun.
Cheers - made a quick pilgrimage to LPT in June. The problem is that 1) it’s 100% the wrong direction from London and 2) i thought everything there was bloody stiff!
Still need to check our Dinbren so could definitely be a go-er. I may try 3-4 lines and then see which feels most likely to go.
Probably out of your way but El Tigre , 7b at Llandullas Cave, would fit the bill for you perfectly.
I know it's technically a knotch harder, however it's very low end 7b(some say a grade lower).
It's a techy, crimpy V4 boulder into a rest and then some lovely 6b+/6c climbing to the top.
Oooh that sounds most appealing!
Poison Ivy (7a+) at Llanymenech is a nice climb - harder at the start.
The stuff on Nomad wall there is logistically a lot harder to get at.
The real issues with LPT are tides and conditions. You’d be better off looking at something above the Marine Drive, especially once the seasonal restriction is lifted (no climbing before 6pm until 8 September per the guide book but check RAD for this year’s dates in case it’s a bit different).
The Bloods is one of my very few 7a+ onsights so must be soft! Not the best bolting but you can always clip stick a sling onto the bolts to tame the runouts if you’re working it anyway.
Much better rock than Llanymynech and tends to get better weather than the mountains (although the same is true of Llanymynech and Dinbren).
Depends where your club hut is but if it’s in the Llanberis / Nant Peris area, stopping off at the Ormes isn’t really out of the way. It’s only a bit longer to go via the A55 compared to the A5 and certainly easier as long as you miss the traffic.
Technicolour Yawn (7a+) would be an ideal choice
Would go to Portland, check out a few 7a+s (loads to choose from), select one which plays to your strengths (e.g. bouldery versus sustained) and get projecting.
Whatever you do, good luck!
Mick
Assume you did Jack the Smuggler at Llanymynech?
Lannymynech does seem to divide people, I like it and it certainly fits the crimpy / technical brief on Grid Iron and Nomad walls. The routes on Nomad wall are the best in the quarry by a fair margin and the 2 7as and 7a+ are real quality with Nomad fair (but not soft imo) at 7a+. Despite above comment access isn't really an issue as long as you have a partner who wants to climb up there as well. The ledge is surprisingly spacious and once up there with your kit you can stay until lowering off at the end of the day. Otherwise Mussel Bound is good but a different style with crux at top on steeper ground using pinches and undercuts. Poison Ivy as mentioned is worthwhile and gives similar wall climbing to Nomad Wall but not quite as good. Strawburry Tubin might be worth a look, worthwhile route, though difficult to grade, imo only 7b if you do the eliminate direct finish, if you take the natural rightwards loop at the top it's around 7a+ (could even be 7a which might not be what you're looking for).
Thanks all! Most helpful and most appreciated!
i did indeed do Jack the Smuggler on my lone trip to Llanymynech - reckon it was really only 6c+ given I could just about reach through the crux without using the awful crimp
the Red Wall was bird-banned when we were there but it looked incredible. Hopefully appearances aren’t deceptive.
I do love Portland, but people I climb with tend to love it less (tradsters...) so I figure I'll be able to get to the south coast less than the en-route-to-Wales limestone.
(I still need to send stupid bloody Jurassic Shift on which I've managed to fall off after the crux TWICE. It's not even that bloody hard! Total bogey route in my mind now, though.)
> Thanks all! Most helpful and most appreciated!
> i did indeed do Jack the Smuggler on my lone trip to Llanymynech - reckon it was really only 6c+ given I could just about reach through the crux without using the awful crimp
> the Red Wall was bird-banned when we were there but it looked incredible. Hopefully appearances aren’t deceptive.
I think Jack the Smuggler is worth 7a, though somewhat dependent on conditions (those polished crimps can feel much worse if greasy), and being tall is a help, as it is on lots of Llanymynech routes (I'm tall!).
'Incredible' probably pushes it a bit for Red Wall, but it gives some very entertaining climbing in the 6c-7a+ range with long routes and a different style from the other walls. The rock is a bit dusty in places but that doesn't detract too much imo.
I'd assumed, from the hut location, that your companions were going to Wales primarily for trad. In my experience, (time consuming) projecting requires either someone else also projecting, ideally the same route - or an adjoining one - or a dedicated belayer. Neither types of partner are likely to come from a predominantly trad cadre.
Maybe your best bet is a crag with trad and sport routes, such as some of those mentioned above?
We all have bogey routes. For the time being, forget about Jurassic Shift. Chances are, in a couple of years, when you're climbing 7b, you'll pass by, run up it and think, "What was all the fuss about?"
Climbing... it's a funny old game.
Good luck!
Mick
It's on upper pen trwyn but The Bloods (7a+) is good if you get the draws in first and get on it as a proper RP rather than try to onsight it
Posion Ivy was going to be my suggestion - It's a fab climb!!!
However maybe not ideal as a project for someone in London as the start is underwater half the time and it seeps a fair bit.
Ohhhh it starts in THAT part of Red Wall, does it. Ho hum. Did wonder about the pond...
Would something on the slate not suit considering what you've said about your favoured style, hut location and the mixed weather of autumn? Can't think of a route off the top of my head but I'm sure there are several good options at the grade.
jk
I did consider it, but my experience of true sport climbs in the slate is that they are super technical slabs, that actually require a lot of slate know-how to climb. I do enjoy the slate a lot though, so it could definitely be an option.
Having said that, I got seriously spanked on a 6c there last summer, whereas 6c on limestone these days tends to feel pretty straightforward.
> Ohhhh it starts in THAT part of Red Wall, does it. Ho hum. Did wonder about the pond...
Isn't he replying to someone suggesting Night Glue?
Oh, maybe. Dunno!
I mean, that's what the reply-to link suggests, and Night Glues start really is underwater half the time...
I'd echo the people saying just find a dedicated sport climbing partner for a weekend and go south somewhere, if you specifically want to do it over winter. Far better weather and you do it without having to find some messy compromise with the traddies, and if 6cs are too much struggle and you've onsighted 7a this shouldn't be a epic siege here should it...
Given where you are travelling from and your climbing preferences, Mussel bound or Shipperdee doodah would be ideal. Red wall is one of the closest things to an all weather gym in North Wales. Shipperdee is easy to toprope by clipping the lower off from the top of the deep- lots of suggestions on here, many of which might be higher quality routes, but places like Craig Arthur aren't great in winter. Good luck with the project, we might bump into each other at red wall, I'm usually there a few times a week in winter.
Geordie War Cry (7a+) Not a super technical slab or that steep
Oh nice. Easy as hell to access if it's at Bus Stop, too.
Can always do Gnat Attack for fun to warm up, as well...
Ah yes, Night Glue being at LPT...LPT being tidal...got there eventually!
I'll be climbing a lot with my GF over winter and actually venues where we can both climb are easier to come by on the South Coast (she needs low 6s at the moment).
Maybe I should start another thread dedicated to soft Portland 7a+...
I know Mick has mentioned Portland already and you haven't got motivated partners for it, but I ticked my first 7a+ this year at Godnor Far North. Resistance is Futile. Couple of hard crimpy moves after a juggy roof and you're done (well almost - I still took a fall after the crux on my first lead attempt).
After taking ages projecting my first 7a, this one went in two sessions, with the first not even much more than a clip-up for a look see. So was really surprised. But then it suited my style and was also a soft touch for the grade.
Anyway, if Portland comes back into your radar - it's a good one to go for imho.
Hey Paul! Another vote for poison ivy on the red wall!!
I thought it was a beautiful climb, more like the grid iron wall style of climbing. I also enjoyed all of the ones I tried on the red wall but wouldn't say they were soft, totally different style of climbing to the grid iron wall and really fun. Also agree strawberry tubin would be a good one if you take the easier exit. A surprisingly good crag