UKH

I’ve finally decided to forsake my single-rope yank heritage and buy half ropes. Mostly for UK trad, first for a long trip to Cornwall and then for various single- and multi-pitch climbs around the country, maybe eventually some trips to Europe and the US (but no winter climbing). Deciding between the Beal Cobras and the Mammut Genesises. I see some good deals on the Cobras and I like the safety of Unicore but I have heard that they are so slick that they slide off belay ledges, which sounds annoying. Anyone else experience this? Also, what is up with Mammut discontinuing the Genesis? I still see some on sale here and there, but the company’s new rope categories (Alpine Sender etc.) seem to overlap, and they don’t seem to have dedicated half ropes in the 8.5mm range anymore. And I think I prefer ~8.5mm given what I have heard about the propensity of 8mm half ropes to tangle and the potential difficulty in braking/abseiling without gloves. 

Lastly, does anyone have good experience using a Climbing Technology Alpine Up? From posts by Jim Titt and rgold it seems to be the best/safest of the assisted braking devices for half ropes. 

I had Genesis for several years (my first half ropes) and really liked them.   Eventually They got furry and a bit trashed at ends so I got Mammut Phoenix Dry (8.1mm?) 4 years ago to replace them, especially for winter and ice.  I have had no problem with the Phoenix, they were quite slick at first but they soften and loosen a bit with time, really nice ropes.

I think the Alpine Sender is very similar to and replaces Phoenix, but it means you can get some really good deals on the Phoenix at teh moment!

btw I cut my 60m Genesis down to 40 m to use on grit, they are still fine for that.

I haven't used Cobra's so can't comment on them.

I have (pre Unicore) Cobras. I really like them, very supple and lovely to handle/belay with. Mine are now 40s, due to multiple end trims over the (too many) years.

Mammut ropes have always felt like stiff cable to me, in comparison to Beal ropes, though there are some big fans on here. I've not idea how Mammut ropes have changed since they sold the rope side of the business.

I have one & like it. I was influenced by those posts too, but also by the fact that not many other people appear to like it so it was on sale half price

That was a few years ago when there weren't so many other assisted tube-style devices on the market. The only other one I had tried and not liked at the time was the Megajul; no idea if any of the other newer ones from Mammut, BD etc might be better.

I'm going to mention Tendon ropes. Always been happy with their performance and longevity, plus I quite like supporting a smaller brands.

Mixed reports from friends who use the Alpine Up. Seems to bite too easily on thicker single ropes. Not really sold for that reason.

I recently made the same transition and went with Beal Operas with the GD coating. 

Having used them for a couple of months now I highly recommend them. Do not feel too skinny, super light and triple rated. 

I have used the CT Alpine Up for many years, I probably bought one of the first available in Italy. they were a bit heavy but the new ones are much lighter. I think they are great but I climb mainly in Cornwall and the Italian Alps; that's a lot of abseiling. Abbing is risky and the 'Up' with its self locking removing the need for a prussik is for me ideal. You do need to practice with it, rope flow takes some getting used to and using it on fixed belays for bring up seconds is excellent, when you know how.

I was sad that the genesis ropes were dropped, they were so robust, even so one season in the Alps (because of the abbing) wrecks them. 

Cobras are really supple, have great handling and decent durability.

Genesis are slightly stiffer, still with good enough handling and possibly better durability.

Take your pick... 

I'd happily replace my Cobras with the same again.

I have a CT Alpine Up that I no longer use since I stopped climbing harder (for me) routes. Drop me a PM if you’d like it for half list price.

Cobras good trad rope

I think Beal are pretty sound company too if these things matter to you....

Been very happy with our Beal Cobra’s. Good handling and hard wearing.

I've bought Cobras (Golden Dry) and Mammut Genesis in the last 3 years or so. The Cobras are great to handle but both mine quite quickly developed mildly damaged sheafs - just a few threads cut in a couple of places but enough to make me wary (and cut my 60m one down to 50m). So my most recent purchase is a Genesis, on the basis of reviews saying it was more durable. So far so good.

Martin 

Cobras good. I replaced like with like when the first pair got long in the tooth, but honestly were handling and had weared just fine.

Well, kind of a moot point in the end because I can only find one color of Mammut Genesis online. Beal Cobra it is!

I'm a big fan of the alpine up - it's very versatile, and great to be able to switch between assisted locking for bolts and dynamic for gear without changing your belaying style. I've been using it for years.

The only downside is that it's a bit more fiddly than a plate - you get slick with it quick but your climbing partners might not like swapping devices on a multi-pitch with it.