An approach shoe to carry on multipitch

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 LeeWood 12 Jul 2023

I'm scouting for recommendations - an approach shoe which sacrifices some of it's substance for appropriate lightness - to minimize weight. I have been using Walsh fell running shoes but these are finally breaking up, and further have no gear loops for clipping. Is there a specialist market here ?

 Dan Arkle 12 Jul 2023
In reply to LeeWood:

Running shoes are the lightest. 

Get good ones if you like running, or cheap ones from decathlon if you don't.

 john arran 12 Jul 2023
In reply to Dan Arkle:

Or have the best of both worlds and get good ones from Decathlon! 🙂

 Cake 12 Jul 2023
In reply to john arran:

Yes, I bought some Salomon trail shoes for £50 the other day from Decathlon. Nice and light. Just the job

 Luke90 12 Jul 2023
In reply to LeeWood:

I've got the Black Diamond Session and find them even better than running shoes for that purpose. Very lightweight, probably lighter than running shoes and certainly lower profile. Dead easy to slip on and off if you're changing shoes a lot. Great loops for clipping on harness.

 AlanLittle 12 Jul 2023
In reply to LeeWood:

I have some very light Inov-8s. Mine are a few years old, and they have a company policy of taking my favourite shoes out of production as soon as I discover them, so it would be no use naming the exact model even if I could remember it, but they're one of the F-Lite ones. Not marketed as running shoes but I've found them perfectly adequate for alpine approaches & descents

In reply to LeeWood:

Sportiva TX guides all the way

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 arose 12 Jul 2023
In reply to LeeWood:

I use Sportiva Tx2's as a lightweight approach shoe.  If I'm not actually using them as approach shoes on rock (ie most Scottish approaches) I use Sportiva Mutants. These are really light, grippy on grass and have a wee loop to clip them at the back.  I occasionally just use an old pair of inov8 roclites and just clip the laces

 DaveHK 12 Jul 2023
In reply to LeeWood:

Another vote for running shoes, salomon, inov8, whatever fits you. It doesn't matter if they don't have a heel loop for clipping, just clip the bottom of the laces.

 oldie 12 Jul 2023
In reply to LeeWood:

Would a pouch with clip loop suffice? Would fit any shoe you wanted.

3
 dominic o 12 Jul 2023
In reply to LeeWood:

Another vote for TX2 (leather in my case) - they have elasticated cords to hold the shoes together for a compact carry, which I originally thought was a total gimmick, but actually works well. More importantly, they're super light and yet surprisingly supportive. 

 ralphio 12 Jul 2023
In reply to LeeWood:

La Sportiva Mutants

 wbo2 12 Jul 2023
In reply to LeeWood:

Depends on how light you want to go... Sportiva Helios and Hoka Zinal are 2/3 of the weight of the suggestions above, but probbly still not as light as the Walshes..  I'm guessing you don't need mud tread pattern either?

In reply to AlanLittle:

> I have some very light Inov-8s. Mine are a few years old, and they have a company policy of taking my favourite shoes out of production as soon as I discover them, so it would be no use naming the exact model even if I could remember it, but they're one of the F-Lite ones. Not marketed as running shoes but I've found them perfectly adequate for alpine approaches & descents

I think they've been rebranded as the trailroc. I've got some and I really rate them. For slightly heavier duty and more aggressive sole the roclites are good too.

 midgen 12 Jul 2023
In reply to LeeWood:

Adidas Terrex Swift Solo are pretty minimal, quite capable of climbing easy stuff too. Not as cushioned as a trail shoe or chunkier approach shoe though.

Can usually pick them up pretty cheap.

 PaulJepson 12 Jul 2023
In reply to LeeWood:

Have used a pair of Inov8 mud claws and I rate them but no loop to hang them.

TBH for summer approaches without anything too extreme, I've got into wearing a pair of Tevas. I use a velcro strap that came with a rope to strap them together. Grass, mud, scrambling - fine. Oh no, need to cross a river? Fine, they're sandals and your feet are waterproof. Comfortable to walk in (they're the hiking type, not the flat beach type). Don't weigh much and pack up very small/flat. I also really enjoy that my feet get a chance to breathe, rather then poaching in a suede coffin before getting crammed into a sweaty rubber slipper for the day. It's not for everyone (or potentially anyone else?) but I like it. Your feet do tend to get filthy though.

 Steve Woollard 12 Jul 2023
In reply to LeeWood:

La Sportiva TX2 for me, really light and a grippy sole so great on rock, and they have a really neat elastic strap which keeps them nicely out of the way when clipped to your harness.

La Sportiva have just revised them, now called the TX2 Evo.

If you want to go really radical try the Vibram FiveFingers KSO EVO

 Rick Graham 12 Jul 2023
In reply to LeeWood:

It's obviously a compromise but I find that anything light enough to carry on a route is too flimsy for the approach.

Get the lightest option for the relatively short descent and whatever is best for approach? ie 2 pairs.

Post edited at 11:42
2
 Fellover 12 Jul 2023
In reply to LeeWood:

I tend to wear barefoot shoes. Very light for carrying, but obviously not like a normal approach shoe.

Occasionally, if it makes sense for the approach/route combo, I'll wear a more robust pair for the approach and carry in the barefoot shoes as well, doesn't make much difference as they're so light.

Post edited at 11:48
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 arose 12 Jul 2023
In reply to wbo2:

I dont think thats true unless I'm missing something.  (Sportiva Helios - 219g per half pair, TX2's - 290g per pair.  )

 beardy mike 12 Jul 2023
In reply to PaulJepson:

This. Either a pair of sandals, or if I'm returning to the base by abseil, sometimes I'll even clip some flipflops on if it's not on fine gravel... Had the ancestor of the TX series and it was brilliant. Now on guide tennies which are ok, but some people feel they are a bit meh. Have the boulder X mids at the moment as a scrambling boot and would go for the lows as a heavy duty approach shoe for sure...

 lithos 12 Jul 2023
In reply to arose:

tx2 290g per half pair, not pair as far as i can see (sub 150g per shoe would be a sock i reckon !)

arcteryx  norvan sl   - (560g per pair)  

https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/reviews/shoes-and-boots/barefoot-shoes/arcte...

 galpinos 12 Jul 2023
In reply to LeeWood:

TX Guides if I want them as actual approach shoe fot he UK. Good sole with a small heel break, good to climb/scramble in, near trainer level comfort.

TX2 if I just wanted the lightest possible and the descent didn't involve UK-esque steep grass.

 wbo2 12 Jul 2023
In reply to LeeWood: Sportiva's website isn't very clear, and I'll admit my 66% is a bit of an exaggeration so the TX2 look good.

I've had a couple pairs of Norvan's and I'd be loathe to recommend them unless you can get a very goot price as the uppers aren't very durable, and tend to get holes at the toe fold/crease.  

OP LeeWood 12 Jul 2023
In reply to all:

Thanks to all responders on here - Interesting there doesn't seem to be a product specifically conceived for this role. I like the Inov8 shoes - not so often available in high street shops of France - might have to risk mail order. I could send them some card cutouts of my sole ...


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