Alps Summer boots recommendation - Lightweight vs Insulation?

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 huckleberry 22 Apr 2024

Hi All,

I am looking for some mountaineering boots for this summer in the Alps. I want to ask your advice on a pair of boots which I came across on the Mammut store:

- Taiss Light Mid GTX: https://www.mammut.com/uk/en/products/3010-00900-00520/taiss-light-mid-gtx-...

- Kento Pro High GTX: https://www.mammut.com/uk/en/products/3010-01000-50539/kento-pro-high-gtx-m...

Both are B2 with the same level of stiffness. The main difference is the weight, with the Taiss at 550g /boot and the Kento at 810g. The Kento is however rated for lower temperatures at -20C which probably explains the weight difference. 

I am looking for something well rounded, great for long ascents, snow plodding but also technical ridge walking, with plans on doing the 4000m classics in the Alps. I think both options are good but which ones from your personal experience would you recommend- insulation or lightweight?

Thank you!


Which Mammut boots would you recommend for summer in the Alps?

Taiss Light Mid GTX
Kento Pro High GTX
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 wjcdean 22 Apr 2024
In reply to huckleberry:

depends on your objectives! I would imagine the Taiss are the way to go. I use la sportiva trango tower's (which appear to be doing the same job as the Taiss') for summer alps and have never had cold feet (in the physical sense). However if you are looking at doing long, high routes (mont blanc, durfourspitze) at either end of the season maybe you would want more insulation. Losing toes is bad.

 CantClimbTom 22 Apr 2024
In reply to huckleberry:

On the off chance, if you have small feet buy these. Stocks won't last. Then you can wear Tais even in colder conditions 

 https://www.outdoorresearch.com/products/x-gaiters-269287

1
OP huckleberry 22 Apr 2024
In reply to wjcdean:

Thanks! Would you say the Taiss paired with thicker socks is a good combo for Mont Blanc and other routes with deeper snow?

 CantClimbTom 22 Apr 2024
In reply to huckleberry:

Mont Blanc by an ordinary route in Summer? Taiss is plenty warm enough 

2
OP huckleberry 23 Apr 2024
In reply to CantClimbTom:

Some reviews say the Vibram Litebase wears out a bit faster than other mountaineering boots they’ve owned. I am leaning a bit more towards the Kento as they seem a bit more versatile. 

 Jesse Nagel 23 Apr 2024
In reply to CantClimbTom:

Am I losing my mind or is that wrong way to use the heel piece on modern crampons?

 CantClimbTom 23 Apr 2024
In reply to Jesse Nagel:

Those are weird crampons in that pic, the way the heel clip is held by the strap I've never had any like that!

 TobyA 23 Apr 2024
In reply to CantClimbTom:

Jesse is right, they're just not in the right place. They'd fall off quick sharp like that!

 Mark Haward 24 Apr 2024
In reply to huckleberry:

I suggest trying both pairs on. See how they feel, how comfortable they are for you. The correct fit also has a big influence on insulation. Snug, no pinch points, ability to wiggle toes rather than being scrunched up etc. Personally I find heavier / thicker socks not very comfortable for summer alpine use. Remember to try the boots on with the socks you will be wearing. 

     Although both are rated the same stiffness (B2), the category is not consistent as there can be lighter less stiff B2s and heavier more stiff B2s. The less stiff are great for easier more walking based routes ( the ones you are alluding to ) but obviously provide a lot less support on steeper rock, snow or ice which you may venture onto. Often boots that are light mean not only less insulation but often much thinner layers, especially the vibram sole. This usually means they will wear out much more rapidly. So if you are thinking longer term or the ability to be comfortable on a wider range of routes the heavier ones may be the way to go.

   Both boots claim -20, I'm not sure how accurate or realistic this is. Some people run 'warm' or 'hot' and don't seem to get particularly cold feet or hands. Some people run 'colder' and more quickly get cold feet or hands. Obviously this varies but generally, which are you? This may influence your decision.

   Routes where you can move fairly constantly, such as the routes you are aiming for, help keep you warm but if you are stopping / belaying a more insulated pair may be better - what are your future goals as this may influence your decision.

   Wjcdean hit the nail on the head when referring to higher and longer routes and also when you choose to climb. For example if spending a long part of a day above 4,000 metres ( such as the Trois Monts route ) you may prefer more insulated boots - but it depends very much on conditions. Early or late season can be very much colder. You can also get cold periods mid season. Sometimes you are walking on top of the snow, sometimes you may be plunging in. The more insulated boots may give you greater flexibility in terms of temperature / conditions range.

   No one pair will do it all, you will have to make judgements according to your personal ability and the conditions on your chosen routes. On a 4,000 metre peak there are days and times for some people when really light running shoes can work, days when a lighter weight B2 are great and days when you are very grateful for more insulation.

   Going lightweight ( whatever that may mean for you ) is great when you have the experience and expertise to make sound judgements when it is safe for you to do so. So, to answer your question, as you are currently an alpine novice I personally would recommend the more insulated B2 boots at this stage.

   Bear in mind that many guiding companies would recommend B3 boots for something like Mont Blanc. I suspect that the 300 grammes difference in the boots you have highlighted will not be the deciding factor on safe summit success, having cold feet would be.

 TobyA 24 Apr 2024
In reply to huckleberry:

I got the review pair of Kento Advanced the other week and used them a bit in Scotland just over a week ago. One thing I've noticed is they seem to be rather small for their stated size. I thought I ordered 41.5 but received 42s, and it is just as well because the 42s are quite tight on my feet. With both reasonably recent boots from La Sportiva and Scarpa, I've found size 42s to be a lot more roomy. Otherwise the Kento Advanced seemed pretty good - light, waterproof and worked well on the grade 2 scramble I did in them. But I didn't in the end wear them on the day I climbed on Ben Nevis as I wanted a stiffer boot just in case we ended up climbing ice rather than just snow.


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