Boot/gaiter combo for 6000m+

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 Stu Gerrard 02 Mar 2020

Returning to Peru to climb in 2021, intending to climb over 6000m. Climbed there 8 years ago in my plastic Koflachs which have now been retired. Can't buy plastics anymore and can't afford the price of the latest high altitude boots. Thinking of buying a pair of Berghaus Yeti garters to go with my La Sportiva leather boots. Has anybody tried this and does it work?

In reply to Stu Gerrard:

Maybe some aerogel insoles and 40 Below neoprene overboots might be a better combo if you're looking for a versatile setup.

 Mr. Lee 02 Mar 2020
In reply to Stu Gerrard:

What size are you?

https://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/15913264/scarpa-vega-high-altitude-mountaineer... 

With a year to plan I would have thought you could track down a cheap second hand pair otherwise. 

1philjones1 02 Mar 2020
In reply to Stu Gerrard:

Hi Stu, can’t help with your query but I’ve got a pair of Berghaus Extreme yeti gaiters in red size xl which I no longer need. I bought them new a few years ago and used them for 3/4 days so they’re in very good condition. They fitted very tightly on a pair of size 46 Scarpa Freneys. They are a bastard to put on but great when they’re on!

Happy to part with them for £20 posted if you go down this route. 
Phil

OP Stu Gerrard 02 Mar 2020
In reply to purplemonkeyelephant:

Many thanks for the suggestion, I'll look into it

OP Stu Gerrard 02 Mar 2020
In reply to 1philjones1:

Thanks Phil. I'm size 8 feet (British), think your xls may be too big for my boots (though I hope I'm not)

Cheers 

Stu

OP Stu Gerrard 02 Mar 2020
In reply to Mr. Lee:

Thanks Lee. I'm size 8 and that's a great suggestion.

Stu

 Damo 02 Mar 2020
In reply to Stu Gerrard:

Yetis were originally designed to go over Scarpa boots, so never a perfect fit on Sportiva, but they're so old and boots/soles have changed so it's a bit irrelevant now. I have used Yetis on older Sportivas, it works.

Regular Yetis don't really add any warmth, maybe a bit in the leg, and stop ingress of snow. But you lose heat through the sole, into the snow via metal crampons. Fully insulated overboots are relatively fragile and not really for 6000m (unless Denali/Logan). Plus they're a pain in the arse to get on and off at camps, as are Yetis if they slip off.

So I'd look for a 2nd-hand pair of double boots, nothing fancy if you're just going the regular routes. Leather Sportivas would be fine for the approach and lower peaks, but if you're camping on snow at a mid-camp and getting up early to summit, or on Huascaran, then your feet would probably get cold. There's always exceptions, but this is a general guideline.

OP Stu Gerrard 03 Mar 2020
In reply to Damo:

Many thanks Damo. Got some good options now.

Cheers

Stu

 pec 03 Mar 2020
In reply to Stu Gerrard:

If you type "plastic mountaineering boots" into ebay (links to ebay not allowed on here I believe), there is someone selling new, unused Scarpa Vegas in sizes 8 and 9 for £45 with free postage.

Worth a punt?


New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...