Jon Griffith - UKC Gear Tester
- You can read his full report on his blog here: Alpine Exposures
The route is described in the Alpine Club Guidebook by Lindsay Griffin thus:
"This is the longest and probably the most difficult traverse of its kind in the Alps. There is more than 4500m of ascent over all types of terrain and in magnificent situations. Perhaps the most feared and sensational section of the route is the long series of free rappels from the summit of the Aig Noire which are badly exposed to stonefall in the lower reaches. Two bivouacs are normally necessary: in the vicinity of the summit of the Noire and on the Aig Blanche. The length and commitment of the climb make the overall grading (ED1) higher than the sum of its individual parts and it is still rarely repeated."
VIDEO: Peuterey Integral, Mont Blanc