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All of the Wallsend crags face west so catch the afternoon sun well. Wallsend South is closer to the sea and can suffer from soapy rock on still and humid days, whereas Wallsend North is set back a little and is less affected by greasyness. The Colors Area and Hong Kon Phooey Area are cut off at high tides or in rough seas.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

There are no applied bird restriction along the Wallsend cliff at present, (2022) However due to it's more isolated nature and available nesting ledges, it is often populated with breeding pairs of seabird through the season. As well as a Ravens nest in the Bigger Peace area.

Be sensible and avoid any routes close to nesting birds and advise others of nests, to leave them in peace. They will all be gone by mid July.

 

28m.

Rockfax Description
A magical wall climb. Start in the middle of the steepest section of the wall. Climb the fingery lower-wall with conviction to finish up a thin crack in the compact face above. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 25/Jun/1995.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , 3 Star Portland , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland 3 stars grades 6 and below , Portland , Spanish crew 2018 , West Country Climbs: Sport Routes Grades 5 to 7a+ , Portland Sendathon , Portland scheming

Feedback

User Date Notes
TradRat 13 May Show βeta
βeta: I tried climbing this with the crux jug gone. Obv don't know what it was before, but I'd expect to onsight 6b+, and the effort required to get to third bolt clipping position feels like a bouldery crux of a 7a. Got right hand on the chert knob and tried clipping, but I sweat and repeatedly grease/pump off it. Tried repositioning my feet, tried climbing higher up. It's hot, my feet are sore, I've had it with whipping. Off for a swim. Keen to hear others' opinions!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I tried climbing this with the crux jug gone. Obv don't know what it was before, but I'd expect to onsight 6b+, and the effort required to get to third bolt clipping position feels like a bouldery crux of a 7a. Got right hand on the chert knob and tried clipping, but I sweat and repeatedly grease/pump off it. Tried repositioning my feet, tried climbing higher up. It's hot, my feet are sore, I've had it with whipping. Off for a swim. Keen to hear others' opinions!
Wise 18 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The flake with the first bolt in it seems very hollow.
βeta?
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βeta: The flake with the first bolt in it seems very hollow.
RockSteady 20 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Hard to clip at the crux section.
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βeta: Hard to clip at the crux section.
Luke.Nisbet 19 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: I hated this route is as opposite to a boulder as you can get very sport climbing esc crux then some ploddy climbing others in the group loved it
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βeta: I hated this route is as opposite to a boulder as you can get very sport climbing esc crux then some ploddy climbing others in the group loved it
Tituscrags 19 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The run out at the top was \'engaging\' let\'s say
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βeta: The run out at the top was 'engaging' let's say
earthkeptwarm 17 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Really great line. Messed up a clip and then fought the box pump up the rest. Quality route with an intense start.
βeta?
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βeta: Really great line. Messed up a clip and then fought the box pump up the rest. Quality route with an intense start.
etrillaud 27 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: tough crux move on the lower part
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βeta: tough crux move on the lower part
J1_TOV 8 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Stiff warm up with shaky low down moves with a long reach left being the last hard move. Bliss after clip 3.
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βeta: Stiff warm up with shaky low down moves with a long reach left being the last hard move. Bliss after clip 3.
a_radiohead_fan 22 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: top route. strenny low down with a little food for thought higher up. excellent.
βeta?
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βeta: top route. strenny low down with a little food for thought higher up. excellent.
Jus 11 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A 3 star top banana. Easy for the grade & just as good as Trad Free World.
βeta?
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βeta: A 3 star top banana. Easy for the grade & just as good as Trad Free World.
Ben Stokes 19 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Nice and sustained - a magnificent climb.
βeta?
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βeta: Nice and sustained - a magnificent climb.
John Alcock 19 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Superb, but be prepared to really go for it on the big lunge left.
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βeta: Superb, but be prepared to really go for it on the big lunge left.

Logged Ascents

473 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Wallsend South

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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 73
Votes cast 57
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Walking the King

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Coastguard South)

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